Something to Admit

I have to get something off my chest, something that is troubling me . . . I have started cheating . . . You know those Basil seeds which didn't grow - the ones I said I would leave a bit longer to see what happens? Well, nothing ever did happen. So I have put them in the propagator to hurry them along a bit (or should I say a LOT).

I never told you. This was suggested to me earlier. But I dismissed it. However, since the season is getting so far behind, and since I want to show you how to take cuttings, soon, I have put some Dahlia tubers in there to get them going (it is still too cold in the garage, unusual for this time of year). Anyway, I couldn't resist. I popped the Basil in as well.

Oh, and something else: the Willow catkins are not in my own garden. I spotted them whilst out walking.

There, I feel better now. Who said confession wasn't good for the soul.

A New Project

Just in case you are tired of hearing about Geraniums, here is a new project:

This young Fuchsia has been grown from a cutting (not by me). I want it to develop into a compact many-flowered plant.

I have cut the tips off the top leaves on one side to slow down the growth; it was becoming unbalanced (the cutting has been pinched out once, leaving two growing stems). I am also turning the plant each day so that the weaker side has the most light. Hopefully it will now grow evenly.

I want it to grow hard compact stems to provide a firm support for the rest of the plant (soft stems tend to collapse). To do this, I am keeping water and heat to a minimum.

I haven't done this before. It should be interesting to see how things go.

We should be able to take some cuttings as we go along.

Problem is we are back to winter again, with snow forecast this week.

To Cut Or Not To Cut

The lawn has really started growing now during the warmer wet weather.

I have been looking at it all week, agonising over when to cut it (Yes, I know I should get bigger and better things to worry about. And yes, I know it is only a lawn. But that's how I am: and this is only the start of it! I could get seriously worried about me. Do you think there is any hope?). In case you're wondering what could possibly be so worrying, let me explain:

As we saw in the article on spring feeding, we are in the last few weeks of active root development for our lawn grasses. And since I want to make the lawn as drought-resistant as possible, I want to take full advantage of this.

All plants grow better as their leaf surface increases, because there is more food produced to fuel growth; grass is no exception. However, we are limited as to how long (physically) we can let it grow. Although I shall be explaining all this later on, here are a few factors to consider:

• Never cut a lawn grass down by more than half. Since I am using a cylinder mower (an old steam model) with a maximum cutting height of 0.75 inches, and since this mower will not cut long grass without flattening it, I want to be cutting it when it gets to somewhere in the region of 1.5 inches long (If the mower had allowed, it would be 2 inches).
• Never cut a lawn when it is too wet. We have had a good drying wind this weekend, but a return to winter, with snow, is forecast. Leaving the lawn might let it get too long.
• Try to keep the lawn at a constant height. Letting it get too long presents it with too much of a shock from which it will waste time recovering.
• Leaving grass too long thins the turf too much.
• There are visitors to the neighbourhood and I don't want them to see an untidy lawn . . .

I could go on and on. But I am sure you have got the message. Things are rarely clear-cut with growing. Appropriate action is always a matter of carefully considering available options. This is why it is more of an art than a science. But this is also what makes it so challenging and rewarding (when we get it right). Increasing our knowledge and understanding helps us to make better decisions.

Anyway, as you can see, I decided to cut it.

Progress on seeds after 23 days

Hard to believe that this Coriander seed case once enclosed two of the leaves (cotyledons).



Lateral roots just starting growth. Have not watered yet. But nearly there.

Compost just starting changing colour at top around seeds. Will have to watch carefully. Could water now. But want to wait a while longer.






Still no progress on Basil.

Coriander and Dahlias now in cool conditions to get stronger plants.

Slugging it Out Part 1

Nearly lost a blue hosta last year. Slugs reduced it to a skeleton early on - It stayed this way all season, much to my embarrassment. Will try a different approach this year.

Recent warmer damp conditions are ideal for slugs - many have already hatched from overwintered eggs. These pests need controlling before they also start laying eggs (upto 300).

Slugs are usually more of a problem BENEATH GROUND - where they cannot be seen and are safe from frost - than they are above it (although they also cause problems with pots and containers; tending to shelter beneath them). Delphiniums and Hostas are particulary susceptible. I find liquid slug killer is the only way to deal with these. The problem is, which one?

Metaldehyde liquid
Aluminium Sulphate liquid

Yes, I know metaldeyde is poisonous, but we are talking about underground slugs ('Garden Slugs' and 'Keel Slugs'). The problem is that metaldeyde works by dessication (it affects the mucous glands thus causing slugs to dry up), and with the soil being wet, they might survive and become resistant. I have already given them a treatment of this in February when the soil was drier.

Decided to use Aluminium Sulphate. Showers forecast for week, on BBC. Will use pellets at recommended rate, since heavy rain could dilute a liquid too much. [No, I didn't: Weather suddenly changed, so used liquid after all, not pellets, at 50 grams per 4 litres (2oz per gallon)]

Will be coming back to slug treatment very soon. Meanwhile, here are a couple of articles you might find interesting:

Dr. Bill Symondson, Cardiff School of Biosciences: SLUG CONTROL
Earthasy.com: Natural Slug Control

If you are planting seeds outside, look out for new organic slug pellets based on Ferric Phosphate. This looks good for surface use. Not sure if it can be applied as liquid.

And have a look for slugs under your pots!

Feeding a Lawn in Spring

We all know that lawns stop growing in winter. However, growth only stops on the surface. Down below, the grass is making a brand new root system. This process begins in the autumn as the darker nights approach and continues through till late spring, with perhaps a break during the depths of winter. In late spring, root growth stops and leaf growth takes over.

This is illustrated very well by this Minnesota Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series publication which, lower page, shows the growth pattern of Cool Season grasses, the types we use in the UK.

As you will see, the Seasonal Plant Growth is still favouring root growth at this time of year. Grass does not really start growing in earnest until mid April, depending upon the weather.

Many people are in the garden centres right now buying high nitrogen feeds which stimulate leaf growth. The problem is that, if we do this too early, the roots stop growing prematurely. So when the dry weather comes, the grass has insufficient root to provide moisture, and consequently turns brown.

As I said in my article on moss, we want to build up the grass to replace the moss. And, consistent with our theme, the best way to do this is to develop the roots; then we can later concentrate on leaf growth.

How do we do grow roots?

We apply an autumn feed at the recommended rate. These might still be available in garden centres. They are often sold off cheaply at this time of year.

However, we need to be careful here since most autumn feeds contain ferrous sulphate to kill moss. If you have a moss problem and are willing to tolerate it turning black, then there is no problem. But can I make a suggestion?

Feeds can be supplied in either granular or liquid form. Since there is no time to waste, it would be best to use liquid since this will get into the plant quicker, through the leaves and down to the roots. Granules can be used, but apart from the fact that they are usually mixed with moss killer, they take about 2 weeks to start working and might need watering in if there is a dry spell.

If you cannot get a liquid autumn feed without moss killer, I recommend Phostrogen All Purpose Plant Food, the one in the orange box. It is not sold as a lawn feed (that's the one in the green box which we may be using later), but is high in water-soluble phosphate to nourish the roots.

APPLY AS LIQUID
Mix 20mls per 2 gallons in a watering can and apply this over 4 square metres. Continue every 2 weeks until you see improvement.

This is a good way to apply feed evenly without scorching. The trick is to get a coarsish rose. Mine lets me spread the can over about 20 sq metres very quickly.

This is rather a lot of work, especially on a large lawn. What I do is wait for rain to be forecast then apply at 100 mls per 2 galls per 20 square metres. Or you could use a Phostrogen feeder on the end of a hosepipe; or attach an applicator to your sprinkler.

APPLY AS SOLID
These new hand-held spinners are really good for granular lawn feeds. I tried mine last year and was very impressed. Only problem is that it is difficult to control edges, so could not use with weedkiller or moss killer since this would trespass on borders. It should work with dry Phostrogen. Apply at 5 mls per square metre every 2 weeks. Best put on dry grass when rain is due.



If your lawn is not too bad, or you have already applied an autumn feed, then wait another month when we shall be giving high nitrogen feed.

Planting Dahlia Tubers

If you have just bought some new tubers, they can be planted out in the garden straight from the packet. Or if you want earlier flowers, start them off in pots of multi-purpose compost, then plant out later. You can also grow them in 7 inch pots, even larger if possible.

If you have removed dahlias from storage, carefully shake as much soil off as possible, watching for the yellow slug eggs which have overwintered with them (I haven't found any yet, but I will show you what they look like if I do).

Dahlias are easy to grow and you can just dig a hole and put them in. Single tubers can be laid flat, so that the neck is about five inches below soil level (They can be planted much shallower than this, but because they love water, planting them deeper is best. It is also best if you want to overwinter them in the ground. Frost very rarely gets down to this level, especially if the ground receives some sun during the day in winter).

WATER THEM FIRST
If you are planting tubers surrounded by dry soil, make sure it is moist first. Always do this with plants, because if they are dry when planted they might remain this way all season.

What I often do is give them all a light drink whilst still in storage position. This gives them a slightly better start. It also hatches the slug eggs so that these pests can be easier dealt with. However, it is still a little bit early for this. Best done in a week or two when it feels more like spring.

GETTING BETTER RESULTS
Dig a hole about 30 centimeters (12 inches) deep.

Add some multi-purpose compost to hold the water (do not use raw peat; it is too acid). They cannot get too much compost.

I like to add about an egg-cup full of bonemeal to the bottom of the hole to act as a feed. If you can't get bonemeal, don't worry, the compost should contain enough feed to get them started. Give them a soluble foliar feed as soon as they break through.

Mix the whole lot together.

Add a few slug pellets just in case.

Lay out the tuber as best you can, vertically or horizontally. Be careful not to damage it. The neck of the tuber should be at least 20 centimeters (4 inches) below the surface.

I add some 'Derris Dust' to keep millipedes and wireworms at bay. This is beneficial but not necessary.

Work some loose soil around the tubers as best you can.

SPEEDING UP THE PROCESS
Cover the neck of the tuber (from where the new shoots will come) with about an inch-and-a-half of soil, just enough to keep the frost off. There should now be about 15 centimeters of hole above the neck.

Why not fill in the hole completely?

Well, you can fill the hole in completely, but this way the sun warms the tuber quicker and speeds germination. It takes quite a bit longer at this time of year for the soil to warm up lower down. And if it gets a bit frosty, you can always scrape some more soil over them for protection.

That's all there is to it. They should be up in a few weeks, depending upon the weather. Watch out for slugs attacking the new shoots as they break through the soil surface.

Splitting Up Dahlias

PRISING APART
I don't usually plant out dahlias until the spring bulbs have finished, but I thought I would try a couple to see how they fared. It is still a little bit early. Although the soil is nice and moist, it still hasn't really warmed up yet. It will be interesting to see how much sooner they flower.

After removing from storage, it is a good idea to shake off some dry soil, keeping a close lookout for the little yellow round slug eggs which have overwintered with the tubers. These should be removed immediately.




Often it is possible to gently prise the tubers apart without doing too much damage and giving more plants. Having said this, I do not plant single tubers, and find that two or three plants together give me bushier plants with more flowers. Plants are normally two or three years old before they need to be split up. Splitting every third year does the plants good. They go down hill from this time on.

If you have bought single tubers to plant out, plant them separately. This will give you the biggest flowers.

SLICING
If you cannot separate the tubers at this stage, then I find it best to wait until a little later and slice them with a sharp spade or knife. Since each half needs developing shoots, it is best to make sure that you can see these first. Tubers left alone will soon be starting to sprout young shoots, even without water.

If you do slice your tubers, you should plant them out as soon as possible.

Dahlias Survive Winter

OUTSIDE

Although it is a little early for me as far as dahlias are concerned, I wanted to see how they had coped with the winter.
As you can see from the photo, I was lucky enough to have added some dry peat, just before the harshest frosts, to the tops of the dahlias overwintered in the front border. Then we got 30 centimeters (one foot) of snow which seems to have kept them a bit warmer.

I dug one up to have a look at the tuber. It seemed fine. Left it at that. Did not want to disturb them unnecessarily.


INSIDE
Removed covering of newspapers from dahlias stored in unheated garage. Seem to have survived O.K. They seem to like some drying soil around the roots. And treating them with Derris Dust seems to have controlled centipedes.

Weather Creates Quandry

This bout of rain has been very welcome and has done much good. As you can see from the bursting Hawthorn buds, spring growth has finally begun in earnest; we shall have to, as well.

Because of this I am left in a quandary as to how to progress. Many of you will have gardens and might be looking for specific advice. And perhaps this blog is the type of place that should be giving it, I don't know.

But as I said at the start, there are many different ways of growing, all of which might be right. I came to the conclusion years ago that growing is more of an art than a science. I have not deviated from this position. Part of the problem is that gardens vary so much in their individual characteristics; what would suit one garden might not suit another, even one next door; and added to this, treatments depend so much on what has gone before.

Gardens are extremely diverse and complex. Realistically, it would be impossible to give anyone advice, especially since I am unfamiliar with your situations. To pretend otherwise would be folly.

A BASIC BLOG
This is a basic blog progressing from first principles, onward and hopefully upward. Although I cannot deal with individual situations, I can discuss and explain the fundamentals of growing and how they can be adapted to suit different environments and growing conditions; and this indeed is an objective.

Since, as you can appreciate, this is beyond the current scope of a few paragraphs per day, and since to go down this route now would mean deserting the new growers who have followed so far, I want to do two or three things:

Firstly, I want to ensure that what has been outlined so far has been fully understood and assimilated. I cannot tell you how important watering (the basis of the 'discussion' so far) is in the process of growing. It is literally 'make or break'. Therefore, I want to carry on demonstrating the basic watering and seed-growing techniques already begun.

Secondly, I want you to gain some appreciation of my own growing technique. This might or might not be right for you, I don't know; but if you don't mind observing it for a while, I will try to explain how it is based on the basic fundamentals of watering and other management techniques which I shall soon be describing.

I hope that when everyone is feeling confident, we can enter a discussion about these principles and about how they might be relevant to your own growing situations. We should all gain much from this.

You might have noticed that this blog is not about constant success. As you know, success is never constant, as much as we might like it to be. Success comes from understanding. And real understanding comes through the experience of doing, especially of doing wrong. We need to stretch the boundaries, break the rules, do things differently.

I want us to make mistakes. I want us to learn. I think we shall all get the most out of things this way and become better growers. I hope you feel the same.


Jimini

Crush on Coriander

To speed up germination it is a good idea to break the hard shell by crushing seeds lightly (I used the side of a kitchen knife). This lets the water access the seeds inside.

Progress on seeds after 17 days

Don't mention the Basil.

Our Coriander seed at the side of the cup is a little slower than the rest(see bottom - our plant is ringed in red). Nevertheless, there is something interesting here. Although the root (radicle) has sunk 7.5 cm (3 inches) down into the cup and has now reached the bottom (see below), it's hypercotyl (the bent bit) is only just breaking through the surface, dragging the cotyledons (the first 'leaves') behind it.

Since the surface of the compost is very dry, we can see from the dark colour of the compost below and from the globules of water clinging to the side of the cup (can you see them?) and by the weight of the cup that water will not be required for a while yet. There has been no shrinkage away from the edge yet.

We want to see the compost changing colour before we even think about watering.

Again, we want to watch the light at this stage. The worst thing we can do is keep them in poor light in warm conditions. Watch them carefully for signs of going leggy. This is a symptom of growing too warm in too little light.

I will be placing these in cool conditions soon. This is particularly necessary with coriander, especially as the season progresses, as it tends to run to seed when it is too hot. Cool growing will produce strong healthy crops, at least early in the season.

DAHLIA SEEDS

These are doing well. Not as well as expected, but O.K. Will show you when they have developed first true leaves.

Help! It Hasn't Worked

16 days after planting the Basil seeds, the cup is empty - No sign of any life whatsoever!

It could only happen to me. The Coriander and Dahlia seeds I planted at the same time are doing fine. I felt confident they would; I have grown them before. Clever-clogs here chose to describe the Basil, which I have never grown before. After all, they said it was easy, didn't they; it's the Coriander which is supposed to be difficult.

I can recollect the last time this happened. I spent months staring at an empty seed tray, until one day I looked at the unopened packet - I hadn't planted the seeds.

Now, just in case you're wondering, and before anyone asks me, the answer is 'Yes. I've checked. The packet has been opened.' Mind you, knowing me, this doesn't necessarily mean too much. The cup could still be empty.

Let's try to be positive. What might have happened? What are the possible causes:

• poor seed
• too dry
• too wet
• too much light
• wrong time of year
• too cold

ANALYSIS
poor seed - It could be poor seed but it is unlikely, although it was cheap.

too wet or too dry - After carefully scraping beneath the dry surface, the compost is dark and moist. Not too moist, but just right to germinate seeds (I'm going to tell you soon what I mean by this and how to perform the test. No. Blow it. I'll tell you now. Pinch a bit of compost between finger and thumb. You should just be able to see water. If you hold it to your ear, you might be able to just hear it, that's if you have better hearing than me).

too light - The packet tells us to lightly cover, implying that these seeds will tolerate some light (some seeds will not germinate unless they are in complete darkness). I don't think this is the cause.

wrong time of year - The packet says that it can be sown indoors from January onwards. This will therefore not be the problem.

too cold - Packet also says that it should not be planted outdoors before May. This is a clue. Although it has been kept in an unheated porch along with the Coriander, which has germinated, it might have been too cold, even though the packet says it will grow at temperatures between 15 and 20 deg C (60 to 68 deg F). We have hardly had any sun to warm the porch.

WHAT TO DO
Although I could not find any seeds when I dug into the surface; because the compost was only damp and not wet, any seeds present should still be fine. They should just be sitting there awaiting warmer conditions.

I have planted another lot of seeds, both Basil and Coriander, and placed them in a warmer position. I am going to leave the originals in the porch to see what happens. We just need some sun (and warmth).

Moss in Lawn

Moss can look lovely in the right setting; it looks positively awful in the lawn, especially as it dries out and turns brown during the summer months.

If left untreated, it can quickly colonise a lawn, replacing the grass almost completely. This is especially a problem in damp shady conditions.

I don't think I need tell you what moss is. But here's something you might not know:
The time to tackle moss (if indeed you decide to do this) is not in the spring, as most growers suppose (and as most gardening books recommend). No. The time to tackle it is in early autumn (August in the UK) when it recommences growth during the warm dewy nights. At this time it can be nipped in the bud and kept under control.

This is not to say that it cannot be controlled in spring - it can. Modern moss killers will turn it black before your very eyes - literally. It can be killed in seconds. However, as you might be aware, killing it is not the problem; the problem is the unsightly mess that is left behind.

Gardening books tell us to rake this dead moss out immediately. Nothing wrong with this. But unfortunately it leaves a lawn devoid of grass, resembling the leftovers of a nuclear holocaust. And it can look this way for several months until the grass has had time to get going and fill in the bare patches.

Many gardeners think that raking the moss out in this way will prevent its re-establishment. I don't think this is true. I think just the opposite. Disturbing it too much will help spread the spores (the moss's equivalent of seeds) to other uninfected parts of the lawn. These will lie dormant till autumn.

It is supposed that moss killers kill these spores. Not true. As far as I know, only mercuric chloride (the old-fashioned moss killer, no longer available) will kill spores. Ferrous sulphate, the common moss killer, will not.

When we consider as well the enormous effort needed to rake a lawn efficiently, added to the above, I think there has to be a good case for leaving it alone.
This might sound horrific, but it is not so silly as it seems.

Since we cannot kill the spores and prevent re-infection, and since the moss dies out anyway in dry weather, what benefit is there in killing it off in the spring?

Provided it is not too unsightly, and that water can pass through it to the lawn, my suggestion is to leave it alone (and green) for now and concentrate on reviving the remaining grass so that it will be ready to take over as the warmer months approach, filling in as the moss dies back, and subsequently hiding its brown colour. This avoids the unsightly mess. It also saves us much time and effort whilst avoiding adding chemicals to the soil.

The moss will rot down in the turf as it dies back, leaving the grass. Then we can tackle it when it resumes growth in August. Hopefully, by that time we should have a decent lawn.

That's the theory, anyway. I have used this principle for several years. It has worked well for me. I hope it will work for you.

The Bane

LAWN

This lawn is the bane of my life. Every year there seems to be a different problem. Every year I come within a cat's whisker of digging it up. But I never have - not yet, anyway. Somehow, it always seems to recover. And I like the challenge of fixing it at least cost. It has become an old friend, an old passion of mine.

Looks a bit better, but not much. Gave it a quick comb through with electric raker five days ago. These tools are wonderful. It only took a few minutes. Would have taken me hours with a hand rake. Still much dead stuff left in. But I don't want it bare at this time of year; it would spend half the season recovering. I'm not really bothered by dead stuff, as it will rot down during season. At least the water can get to the surface now. And at least the moss has gone.

Not sure what is wrong with lawn, but think most of trouble could be due to prolonged winter conditions.

I gave it a heavy dressing of Autumn feed (with ferrous sulphate mosskiller) in February. I wanted to stop the moss in its tracks, as it was getting a hold again. Silly thing to do. I always wondered why we shouldn't apply chemicals in freezing conditions. Now I know! Matters were made worse because there was no rain to wash it in.

Normally we get some growth intervals in the winter, when the temperature rises above 6 deg C. This hasn't happened this year.

Might be some disease in lawn. Have decided to ignore this for now and leave it alone to see what happens.

I am trying to discover how to make it drought-resistant by growing deeper roots. Needless to say, I haven't quite got there yet.

Jimini Waters Pot Plants Part 3

IMPORTANT: THE AUTHOR CAN ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR PARTICIPATION IN THE FOLLOWING TECHNIQUE. UNFORTUNATELY, PARTICIPATION MUST BE ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK.

On no account should you use this technique on bulbs, corms or water-sensitive tubers such as begonias.

Now is a particularly good time of year to use this technique, since the plant is just about to start growing actively.

However, because it has been such an unusual season so far, I would be happiest if your plants are actually using water.

Many plants slow right down over the winter months, and if they don't actually become dormant, they like to have a period of rest. Make sure that they are not still resting and that there is ample green growth. Even better if they are about to flower.

One final check: Make sure there is a drainage hole in the bottom of the pot and that it is not blocked.


RIGHT, I HAVE DITHERED LONG ENOUGH. NOW FOR THE ACTION.

It's really very simple:

DROWN THE PLANT WITH WATER.

Yes, you heard me:

FILL A BUCKET, A BOWL, OR THE SINK WITH CLEAN WATER AND FULLY SUBMERGE THE POT SO THE WATER REACHES THE TOP OF THE COMPOST.

Now can you see why I was being a bit cautious?

Of course, I didn't literally mean DROWN ( I only said this for dramatic effect ). After all, our objective is to make it more alive.

The point here is to ensure that there are no dry pockets of compost around the roots. This can easily happen when we water in the traditional way. Water passes through the surface compost and finds a quick way down - a shortcut - to the bottom of the pot (this is often down the sides), leaving the compost around the roots bone dry.

To avoid this, leave the pot in water for about an hour, or until it is thoroughly saturated. If you find it difficult to wet the compost, dry adding a drop of wash-up liquid to the water to act as a wetting agent.

How do you know it is saturated?

The weight. It should weigh virtually the same as the pot filled to the same depth with water alone.

AFTER IT IS SATURATED, ALLOW TO DRAIN AND REPLACE IN ITS GROWING POSITION.

That's all there is to it.

FUTURE WATERINGS
Once we have saturated the compost this way we should continue the technique. This will allow the plant to develop lots of large luscious blooms.

Just to put your mind at rest, I have not watered my Geraniums, this year, for the past month or so. It does not seem to have done them any harm. ( It never does ) They are just starting to bud up, now. Things look really promising. They have been for the past four years. Believe it or not, they have hardly ever stopped flowering in that time. This method really suits them. And I think you will find, it will suit virtually all plants.

The irony is that it is especially beneficial for hard-to-water plants like African Violets and Cyclamens, provided that we don't submerge them completely.

Jimini Waters Pot Plants Part 2

It should be at least 4 days now since you last watered your plants. Of course - I understand if you got a little frightened when you saw the state of my Geraniums and decided to water your plants in the usual manner. And who can blame you?

But can I make something quite clear: I do not recommend that you take your watering to this extreme, not yet, anyhow.

METHOD IN THE MADNESS

In case you are wondering why on earth I use this drastic treatment, the answer is simple:

IT IS ABOUT GROWING THOSE ROOTS.

Plants are like we humans. They only do as much as they need to (I know this does not apply to ALL humans, but it certainly applies to me).

And nothing seems to induce root production faster than the following:

• Diminishing water


• Diminishing food
  

But don't plants grow roots anyway, without our help?

Yes. But these roots are not as developed as they could be. The problem we have as growers is that we do not appreciate just how much water plants can extract from the soil or compost. They are so efficient at this that they can remove almost every single drop.

And it is only when water gets down to these lower levels that the plant gets worried enough to produce extra roots.

But there is also another reason why this drying out is beneficial:

IT AERATES THE COMPOST

As the soggy compost dries out from the surface down, air is forced in to replace the water. Not only is this good for the compost, allowing the living organisms to funcion better, it is also good for the roots, allowing them to be even more efficient at gathering and absorbing water and nutrients.


WATER TOLERANCE OF PLANTS

Different types of plant have different tolerances to soil moisture levels, usually indicative of their native environment.

Woodland plants (Primulas, for example) need a constantly moist (but not wet) soil; desert plants (Cacti, for example) almost dry.

Water requirements of your plants are also dependent upon where you keep them. Thus plants on a south-facing window sill, perched above a radiator, will require much more water than the same plant would on the kitchen window sill.

So how do we know how to treat them?

We experiment. We take them to extremes of moisture, carefully observing the effects. I know that my Geraniums are gasping for water. And don't worry, we shall be giving it some soon enough. But first I want you to learn to recognise this extreme. And a good way to do this it to weigh the pot.

When I say 'weight the pot', I don't necessary mean that you literally weigh it. Although it might not be a bad idea. I find that just picking it up is sufficient. And can I just say that I am always amazed at how light this Geranium pot will have become.

A SAFER METHOD

Rather than risk damaging the plant by over-drying, you might prefer to fill an identical pot with fresh compost and note its weight. True, it might be a bit heavier than we might prefer, but you might be able to rest easier.

When deciding when to water plants, always bear the following in mind:

Plants can invariably recover from too little water; too much, on the other hand, is almost always fatal.

Seeds in a Cup - Background

Although this is a relatively novel way of growing seeds, the real idea behind it is to avoid the pitfalls of shallow compost.

Many novices seem to think that plants will not grow without being constantly topped up with water and kept in permanently wet conditions. This leads to onset of fungal disease, especially 'Damping Off'.

A problem with using conventional seed trays indoors (where the air tends to be too dry) is that they will not hold enough water to see the seeds through germination until an adequate root system is developed (I know this is not strictly true. If the compost is watered adequately, initially, and only re-watered when absolutely necessary, there is ample water. Nevertheless, a novice, not realising this, thinks that seeds will only germinate in constantly wet compost)

Because the compost in a cup is considerably deeper than that used in a conventional seed tray, no further watering should be necessary, even in very dry warm conditions. Thus the method avoids a major pitfall.

I think there are other benefits as well:

• It is less wasteful - Most novices plant far too may seeds in conventional seed trays.
• It requires less space, giving us room to accommodate lots more plantings. This allows us to grow herbs as we need it. It is very useful for Coriander, for example, which quickly seems to go to seed, making it bitter and useless. Many plantings can be made at short intervals to get round this problem.
• If plastic cups are used and we leave some seeds near the edge, we can see what is going on beneath the surface. Not only can we watch root growth, but we can tell when the compost is drying out down below.
• Cups can easily be turned around to suit light conditions and keep growth upright.
• Cups are cheap and so can be replaced each planting, thus helping avoid disease.
• It's a novelty.

Roots Are Hoots

I want to say something about roots. I used to think they were boring (What? You do as well?), just that part of a plant best buried underground. It took me years to discover I was wrong. Now I consider them so important that if I had my way I would have them on show and bury the leaves and flowers (No I wouldn't).

But seriously, if we wish to become better growers, we need to think more about growing these than we do about anything else; we need to learn how to grow them big and strong.

Has this thought ever occurred to you? No, it hadn't to me either. I was always more concerned with things above ground. Yet it's so obvious. Roots are the the plant's foundation.

I never really got beyond considering the foundation as a good anchorage in the soil. Yes, I knew that roots also provided food and water for the growth process, but the penny never dropped, not really.

Then one day it hit me that the bigger the root system, the more food and water the plant can receive; consequently it can grow bigger, stronger and faster. This was a Eureka moment. It changed my whole growing philosophy.

The number of times I had dug up a failing plant to examine its roots (this is the first thing you should do when you encounter trouble). Yet it never dawned on me that growing was about growing these roots - not leaves, stems and flowers.

I don't mean that these are unimportant. Far from it. But when I dug up my best plants at the end of the season, they always had the biggest and strongest root systems. If we can grow roots, everything else seems to follow. Or if we look at it another way, when was the last time you found a strong root system on a sickly plant? Never, I'll wager.

Progress on seeds after 10 days

When I planted Basil seeds in cups, I also planted Coriander. Clear plastic pots are good to see root progress ten days later.

Although root (radicle) is over 1cm long, there is no sign of any growth on surface, whose compost is still dry and light in colour.

Still quite a bit of weight in cup. Not surprising, as lower compost dark in colour. These new roots will be able to access water for a week or two yet.



Not sure if Basil has germinated yet. Did not think to leave some seed next to edge.


These are Miniature Dahlias planted in a margarine tub at same time. Look how pale they are because they have been kept out of direct light. Need to put them in good light now so they don't go leggy.

Notice how dry compost has mopped up water from around seeds and has turned dark in parts.

Notice the two leaves. These are called 'Cotyledons'. They do not resemble the true leaves which will develop next. Have spaced seeds out so they can grow on a bit and develop a good root system.

Pots are still heavy with water. Will not need watering for a good week or two.

Sorry about quality of photos.

Jimini Waters Pot Plants Part 1

IMPORTANT: THE AUTHOR ACCEPTS NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY TECHNIQUES DESCRIBED ON THIS BLOG. PARTICIPATION MUST BE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Need to water the plants today? Do yourselves (both you and the plants) a favour. Don't water them today. Nor tomorrow. Nor the next day. Nor the day after . . . In fact, perhaps not this week . . . nor next week . . . nor the week after . . .. Perhaps you could even wait a month? (If you need to wait two months, then it's not me you should be seeing, it's the psychiatrist. The situation is beyond hope.)

What? Not water them? Surely, they'll die.

Wrong. This might be the best thing you can do for them. Indeed, if you find your plants wilting and dying early on in life, even though you've watered them regularly, this almost certainly WILL be the best thing.

Now, before we go any further, let's be clear about one thing. If that plant you were about to water is Great Aunt Bertha's treasured beloved - You know, the one Great Uncle Albert gave her for the fiftieth wedding anniversary - the one you've been entrusted with whilst they are away, then hold on. It's not that this technique will not work. It most certainly will. At least, the first part will - Great Aunt Bertha will probably have over-watered it - even this plant will be gasping for air.

So, what's the problem? Well, it's just with it being Great Aunt Bertha's. It's making me nervous. And, as you know, nothing's ABSOLUTELY foolproof. There is always some chance that something could go wrong. And anyway, you don't want her thinking that you have neglected it whilst she has been away. See the point?

Before I talk myself out of disclosing anything to you, let me tell you that this technique has never failed - ever. And several persons to whom I have recommended it have had success. Just try it in a small way first.

A principle of growing this way is: WAIT ANOTHER DAY.

But suppose you can't? Suppose you are so convinced that your plants need water that you feel yourself dashing for the watering can right now? What then?

Well, consider the following:

• Are the plants wilting or showing signs of changing colour?
• Is the compost dry to a depth of about one inch or more?
• Is the compost shrinking away from the edge of the pot?
• Does the pot feel like it's nearly empty when you pick it up?
  

These are all signs that water might be necessary. However, unless the plant is growing actively, and preferably in bud, then another day or so without water will do it good.

If it makes you feel better, have a look at these pot Geraniums (Pelargoniums). Can you see how there is some dead leaf?

And here, can you see how the leaf is changing colour at the edge?

I regularly treat my Geraniums this way, especially in the winter months when they are hardly growing. It does them the world of good. I'll explain why soon.

Job Coming Up

Lawn

Ashamed to show you this photograph! Hope we can do something with it. This is a job we’ll be tackling over the next few weeks.

Not entirely sure lawn can be fixed. Could finish up digging it up. Hope not. Should make an interesting project, though, however it works out.

Weather

Never known a season begin as badly as this one. Things normally well on way by March. Not this year. Temperatures have only this week risen above 6 deg C (42 deg F) for any length of time. Still a bitter north-east breeze outside. No wonder plants don’t want to come out to play.

Holding fire till things warm up a bit. Best not to be in too much of a hurry. Surprising how things can catch up once warmer weather arrives. Still, hope things improve soon. Even Forsythia hasn’t flowered yet. Only Snowdrops and Crocus, so far (in this garden).

Growing on a Window Sill

GROWING HERBS ON A WINDOW SILL

This is a virtually fool-proof method of growing seeds in plastic pots on a window sill. It can be used in almost any situation:

An empty window sill can be ideal for growing plants. I outline a simple technique, using Basil seeds in inexpensive plastic cups(pots), which should produce success in almost all situations whilst avoiding the common pitfalls.

BACKGROUND
Many novices assume seeds will not germinate without daily watering to provide constant wet conditions. Not so! Not only is this untrue, it is in my view the principal cause of failure, not just in growing seeds but in ALL GROWING SITUATIONS.

As growers, we need to understand that our biggest enemy is FUNGAL DISEASE – not water shortage or cool conditions. This is not to say these factors are unimportant; they are - very important. But they are problems easily remedied. Disease, however, is terminal. Once established there is no way back, not for the novice, at least. Furthermore, disease spores hang around in the soft furnishings, ready to thwart all successive growing attempts.

Having realised that our principal enemy is a fungus, it becomes easier to understand why frequent watering is a problem. Fungi thrive in warm damp conditions. And since they mostly attack the aerial parts of the plant (the leaves and stems), we can adapt our growing method to keep these as dry as possible. A better appreciation of the conditions conducive to germination help us do this:

As far as we are concerned, the seed germination process can be split into two parts:
* Seed wetting – water must be supplied
* Seed germination – further watering should be unnecessary

Dry seeds will never germinate. The seed casing must first imbibe sufficient water from the soil or compost to initiate the process. Water can be supplied liberally at this stage. Once the seed case is moist, under normal conditions no further water is necessary until the seedlings are well on their way, two or three weeks later

Furthermore, when the new roots emerge, they must be encouraged to go looking for food and water. The best way to do this is to withhold water, allowing a strong healthy root system to develop into all parts of the compost. This will provide the best basis for future food and water uptake and provide a strong foundation for development.

MATERIALS
Multi-purpose compost suitable for seed germination
200 to 300 ml plastic or polystyrene cup
Mixing bowl
Method of marking. eg. felt tip or plastic label
Measuring jug
Pointed instrument, eg. Kitchen knife
Kitchen scales

METHOD
* Puncture cup on side near base with point of a sharp object, to ensure it can drain freely.
* Prepare label with name and planting date.
* Open seed packet.
* Fill pot with compost. Remove any lumps and bits of fibre as you go. Tamp down lightly with thumbs.
* Tip compost into mixing bowl and gradually add about 1/3 cup of clean water. Squeeze water into compost with hands until it is evenly wet. Water should dribble through fingers when compost is squeezed lightly in hand; it should be re-absorbed when released. If compost was brown, it should now appear black.
* Fill cup with wetted compost, avoiding air pockets. Lightly tamp with thumbs till surface is level.
* Place a few seeds in palm of hand and sow thinly with fingers of other hand. If seeds congregate in one spot, spread out with a finger.
* Lightly press seeds into contact with compost.
* If instructed to cover, use dry powdery compost to depth required.
* Re-tamp surface.
* Position plant label.
* Place on a saucer to drain. Tip any drainage (which contains food) back into pot.
* Place in growing position.
* LEAVE ALONE.

TECHNIQUE
The idea is to supply, at one go, ample water for seed wetting and germination, then avoid watering. It is not recommended to cover the pot. This should avoid too much humidity.

The window sill should be light and airy. It is best to avoid direct sunlight at this stage, since this will cause too much drying, and wide temperature fluctuations. A constant temperature of about 15 to 20 deg C is ideal for most seeds (see packet). If the sill is above a radiator, it is best turned off.

Familiarising yourself with the weight of the pot when filled with both wetted and un-wetted compost will be a good guide to future watering requirements (note: the weight of cup and wetted compost should be almost equal to the weight of the cup filled to the same level with water alone). If you have suitable kitchen scales, note down these weights.

WHEN TO WATER
As the compost dries out, it shrinks away from the pot. This is a sign that more water will soon be necessary. Weight is the key thing (see above). Once you feel that the pot has reached its original weight (before it was wetted) you can apply water. Immerse the pot in water and leave until it is fully soaked.

Using clear plastic pots allows us to see when the compost is drying out; it also allows us to watch root development.

Never be tempted to speed things up by applying heat. Growing takes time. Plants grown in cool conditions will usually be stronger and healthier than forced plants. Remember, PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE as far as growing is concerned.

Once the seedlings have emerged, turn the pots daily to help them grow upright.

What Is It All About?

Hello, I am Jimini Skinflint and I hate gardening. It's just too much hard work. And it's never ending. There's always something needs doing, just when I don't want to do it. I often get the feeling I am not in control. I feel lost and helpless. And to make matters worse, it costs a fortune. There's always something needs buying. Never anything left for me. And the weeds never stop growing. And I don't have the time to water it. And there is just too much to learn. It is too overwhelming.

Yes. It's true. I really do feel that way. But only for some of the time. The rest of the time, I love gardening. Well, strictly, that's not what I want to say. I really mean that I love growing. I think there is a difference. Yes, growing really does it for me: it's growing that makes it all worthwhile. And I don't really know why. There is just something magical about the appearance of new life. I suppose it's the sort of thing that mothers feel just after giving birth. It really is wonderful.

But if we are to actually get to this point of new birth, there are things we need to do along the way. We have to get the d- things started, for a start. We need to cross the first hurdles, which seem so easy to experienced growers but miles high to novices. It is in the early days that novices give up, throw in the towel. Gardening's not for them. It is the same thing every time. It never works out.

Well, can I just say: If my last statement makes sense, then this blog is for you. I want to help you over these early days, the first few hurdles. Because I know that if only you can stick with it a while, you too will wonder with joy and amazement at the beauty of growth.

It's not easy. There are lots of ways to do the job, all of which might be right. And it is as perilous as travelling a mountain track in the depths of night. Yet there is a way. Many have already found it. And if you have, I hope you don't mind me sticking to basics. This is necessary. Because it is those things which seem too simple to ask about which cause us to stumble. And if I can say right now that I want you to ask me stupid questions in your comments. And when I say stupid I mean STUPID. Don't be afraid. After all, you might be smarter than you think. Then you will understand how stupid I am, as well.

My gardening life has been about finding new and creative ways of making gardening easier, quicker and cheaper. (I haven't got there yet) I use lots of unusual techniques - most of which seem crazy. But I like to be a little crazy. It is good for the soul. I am always amazed at how little I know about growing: To be honest, I don't really think I know enough to do this blog.

But the point is that you don't need to know much about gardening. This is why we use the Internet. Any information we need is now at the press of a few keys. It really is that simple. We are overwhelmed with knowledge. Really!

What we do need, though, is an understanding of the basics of growing: a basic grasp of how the plant thinks. (I told you I was crazy) I was once told that to grow plants you need to think like a plant, something I found amusing at the time. But it's true. You do need to develop a feel for plants. You need to be in tune with them. And if you can accept this, you will develop an instinct for growing; it will become second nature. And this is good; because the first thing I want you to do will be to leave them alone. Most novices kill their plants with kindness. You need to understand that sometimes you have to be cruel to be kind. The plants will love you for it. But only sometimes. The trick is to know when. I am going to try to teach you this.

I want to give you simple (as simple as it can be, anyway) growing techniques which will fit all sizes, can be used in most situations. And just so we don't upset anyone, I want to choose the areas where you think most have fallen down. (You will have to tell me. I can only guess what they are)

And in addition, I want to choose those jobs which we all hate - I want to tell you how to save time on the weeding. I want to tell you why weeds are such a problem and how you can virtually eradicate them.

If the garden seems to be costing too much, I want to give you what I have learned about keeping the costs down. I have been doing this for years. It's a fad of mine, as you have probably already guessed.

Thinking about what I have already written, it seems very arrogant. Who am I to tell anyone what to do? Who indeed! But as I said, I don't think I know very much. All I am saying is that I am willing to share with you the little I do know - or think I know. And I hope you will do the same.

I don't know how long these postings will be, or even how often. It is very much trial and error, suck it and see. But let me be clear about one thing. This is a BASIC blog. It is about finding new and creative solutions to old problems. I hope it will be helpful.

Jimini