Troubleshooting Aphids On Rose Buds

Aphids, especially greenfly, are a real pest on juicy rose buds during a hot spell at this time of year (roses open around the time of the summer solstice). Although there is one adult here (bottom right), we have mostly young greenfly, which are born live (viviparous) and develop through several stages, often shedding cuticles or skins which fall down to leaves below (see 'Old Cuticles Are Sure Sign Of Pest Trouble')


Young blackfly are also present

Aphids need controlling because they spread viral diseases and cause structural damage to flowers and leaves. They also excrete honeydew as they feed (you have probably experienced this when walking beneath the canopy of summer trees) which drops onto the lower leaves and attracts black sooty mould (this is not in fact harmful, just disfiguring).


Also in other colours:

Aphids also come in many other shades and colours


CONTROL
Control with 'Provado' (thiacloprid) for long-lasting systemic action, or organic fatty acid sprays, or soap and water, or water, or remove by hand or . . . there are many treatments.

See also 'Lonesome Greenfly'; 'Blackfly On Dahlia Bud'

Watering A New Geranium (Pelargonium)

I have been looking for a means to show you a one-size-fits-all method of watering a pot plant. At last we're getting there. This geranium (pelargonium) was purchased in a garden centre five days ago, the healthiest of a bunch, with three growing stems. Rather heavy, though.

Although recently watered - and thus expected to be heavier - these sparse (compared to the rest) wet roots at the base of the soggy compost reveal it has in fact been over-watered for some time. Pots usually fill with roots from the bottom up. And the tap root circling the base shows this plant has been in the pot for some time. I popped it on the kitchen scales: 13 ounzes (about 370 grams).

After standing the pot on a splayed out kitchen towel overnight, and leaving for a further day, it then weighed a full 3 ounzes (85 grams) less, a loss of 23%. It has not been watered since.

On the fourth day, it weighed 8 ounzes (226 grams), and the compost was just starting to change colour - about right for growth (for a geranium). We should start seeing some root recovery now. Placing the pot outside in the sun for some of the time has helped it dry out more quickly. We need to watch it carefully now, so it doesn't get too dry and scorch the foliage.

The fifth day, and there's some root growth starting. About three quarters of the compost has now changed colour. The weight is down to just over 7 ounzes (about 200 grams). We could withold watering another day, or so. But best not. Geraniums don't really droop (unless they're sick). The older leaves just turn brown and crinkly. So gave it a good soak and put outside.

With water-sensitive plants, I find it best to water first thing in the morning. This way, the pot has time to drain, and the roots can take up any excess water from the compost more quickly, thus eliminating the risk of leaving the roots in soggy compost without air. And because things are generally drier overnight, there is less risk of disease taking hold. It is good policy to keep a pot drier tissue under the pot on a permanent basis. This ensures compost cannot be too wet for too long.

USE ONLY PLAIN WATER - NO FEED
It is important not to feed the plant until it starts to lose colour. The compost will almost certainly already contain some slow release feed which might support growth for a couple of months. There is no way of knowing, unless you see the feed pellets in the compost. Best to be safe. We can soon feed if we have to.

FOLIAGE COLOUR
I like to avoid plants with dark green foliage. This indicates too much nitrogen has been given for firm healthy growth; the growth will have been forced. And contrary to opinion, plants do not seem to grow fastest in this condition. I find a leaf which is mid-green in the centre (the new growth), turning slightly darker towards the edges is the colour which supports optimum growth.

KEEP CHECKING THE ROOTS
Many people are afraid to remove plants from their pots to examine the roots. Don't be. It's the best way to learn how to grow any plant. Just be careful not to damage it. Place stem between fingers and invert pot onto palm, then press the base of the pot with thumb of other hand. Plant falls out of pot onto palm. Easy.

Drying is important. NEVER WATER ANY PLANT UNTIL THERE HAS BEEN AT LEAST SOME DRYING OF THE COMPOST, the more the better. Some plants can be dried out more than others. You will need to experiment.

Fixing An Over-Watered Plastic Cup

Plastic cups can make useful growing vessels (keep out of strong sunlight), especially for novices. Being able to see the compost is a distinct advantage and can be very enlightening. But what happens if we over-water?

Up 'till now, we've relied upon a pin-prick hole punched in the base of the cup. But this will only let out the excess water. If you remember, I showed you a way to remove even more water from the compost by standing a plant pot on a piece of absorbent material such as a kitchen towel. I know this looks a bit 'Heath Robinson', but it really does work very well (I recommend you keep a piece under all your pots on a permanent basis 'till you master the art of watering). However, it was little use on these plastic cups.

So I took a craft knife and sliced some larger holes in the base, so that the compost (soil in this case) can actually come into direct contact with the paper, which then acts as a wick. This seems to work fine.

Jimini Feeds Plants - Introduction

I know I should have told you earlier. I've been avoiding it. But the truth is, I don't really know HOW I feed plants. I just have a look at them and, if they look as if they need feeding, give them a bit of what I think might do them good.

Sometimes it works differently: I don't look at them 'till something prompts me they need feeding (it's like that thought which reminds us when we've forgotten something). Don't ask me how this works - instinct, I suppose. And this seems to work the best (now can you see why I'm worried about me?).

This is not very helpful, I know. But it's how I do it (you did ask).

WHAT DO WE FEED THEM WITH?

Once, I only used two feeds: 'Phostrogen Soluble Plant Food' (used as a liquid) and bonemeal (given as a solid, at planting). However, upon beginning this blog, and on reading the recommendations of the experts, I am rather confused as to how I managed to grow any plants at all, other than poor stunted offerings with one or two flowers (reminds me of my mother's geranium, her pride and joy).

I am so affected by this reading, I have been trying other feeding systems (not just feeding, I have re-assessed my whole growing system). And I have to tell you: so far, I am not over-impressed. The results seem no better than my own. Actually, they do not seem as good (and in the process I managed to amost destroy a pelargonium (geranium) which had been flowering incessantly for over two years (maybe even much longer)). I am not blaming these other systems; I am blaming my lack of familiarity with them. They probably ARE better. It doesn't matter. As I have said on several occasions, 'If it ain't broke . . . '. When will I ever learn?

What amazes me is how little attention plants actually need. The less we try to help them, the more they seem to appreciate it. We should bear this in mind at all times.

When I described watering, I tried to give you a one-size-fits-all, easy-to-follow technique - one which might not give you perfect results, but will nevertheless produce a result (and a pretty good one, at that). I intend to do the same here - soon (and, you'll be pleased to know, we are back to bonemeal and 'Phostrogen').

Don't be impatient. We shall be feeding them soon enough. What you need to understand is, they will have been fed by the nursery with slow-release feed; some of this should still be left. There. Feel better now? First, let's look at a few things.

WHY DO WE FEED?

Although a complex process which need not concern us here, we should understand that feeding fuels two distinct processes:

• the building of a strong framework and rooting system, to support the flowers and absorb the light

• the production of flowers and seeds

Feed contains the three major nutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (you don't have to know all this (but it's useful), so skip the rest if you wish - go to 'Jimini's FEEDING RECIPE'). Many more elements are present as well, but these are the really important ones - for the moment, at least. So what do they do?

Roughly speaking:

• Nitrogen allows plant to produce protein for growth

• Phosphorus allows it to develop strong healthy roots

• Potassium hardens the plant structure, making it more disease-resistant, and gives good colour to flowers

N:P:K RATIO

Each type of feed contains a specific ratio of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K). This has already been discussed.

As far as we are concerned here, bonemeal will provide both the nitrogen and phosphorus to produce the framework and roots. This is usually applied at planting.

Later, once the plants have grown, 'Phostrogen' will supply nutrients to complete this process. It will strengthen this structure and provide the potassium for flowering. Simple (it's not simple - but as far as we're concerned it is).

Some of you might use a high nitrogen feed such as 'Baby Bio' or 'Miracle Gro' Nothing wrong with this. But bear in mind that this type of feed will produce more leaf and stems of a softer nature. We have already talked about hard and soft growing.

This system (the type described here) is more of the 'hard' type.


Most of us believe that we can feed flowers. In other words, by applying feed to flowering plants, they will produce more. No. Once flowering has been induced, watering is more effective than feeding. We need to watch that too much nitrogen feed does not remain, else this might induce the plant to keep increasing the framework at the expense of flowers, giving massive green plants with few, if any flowers. We want compact (but not too compact) strong plants covered with blooms of beautiful colour.

Perils of Over-Feeding

I have deliberated long and hard over this article - ever since you (I haven't got any) planted the bedding plants - and even before this. Why? Well, it's just that feeding is so important - Although not so important as it is to us. I mean, plants don't actually die if left for a while without food, not directly at least (if they do die, it is usually because they have been weakened and attacked by predators or disease). In fact, food shortage is not the real problem - TOO MUCH food is the problem.

Plants don't get fat, have a heart attack and keel over like we humans, nothing like that. No, it's altogether more clinical. Being too liberal with the feed bottle (as we seem to have been conditioned to become) burns the tender young root hairs, thus depriving the plant of water (and, ironically, food).

I must be honest, I am lucky in this respect (the feeding, not the honesty). Being, as I am, too stingy to buy the feed, I don't really have this over-feeding problem. And, additionally, for some reason I am conditioned to appreciate the perils involved (feeding a plant gives me the same feeling as putting my hand near a hot stove: I want to draw it back immediately; it feels like some mysterious force is controlling the process (that reminds me, the appointment with the psychiatrist is due any day now)). Nevertheless, I do appreciate the significance. Next to over-watering, over-feeding is the second most common sin - er, error.

So, how DO we feed?

Well, after carefully honing my skills over the years, I have produced the almost perfect technique - one which has given me excellent results, and will for you, as well, I am sure. If you can bear it, I shall be pleased to share this technique with you, right here and right now (What was that? 'About ***** time?').

Upon receiving a new plant, and after having given it a brief but thorough perusal, I ask myself one question: Is it green? If 'Yes', leave it alone - do nothing for now; if 'No', again do nothing. Simple.

In case you think I am being facetious - I am not. No, really. You don't understand. This IS how you do it. It took me
years to discover the secret. Honestly.

Controlling Weeds in the Lawn

If the weeds in your lawn are driving you mad, and if you cannot/do-not wish to dig them out, then help is at hand. I have found 'Verdone' to be an excellent lawn weedkiller.

'Verdone' can be applied by either sprayer or watering can. Spraying is best because it does not use as much. So not only is it more economical, there is less risk of weedkiller getting into the flower beds (it can be washed off the surface in heavy rain), or even into the water supply. Just carefully follow the instructions. If you do this, success is virtually guaranteed, with a few provisos:

Because 'Verdone' is a systemic weedkiller, it works as the weeds grow. This will take a few weeks and means that if weeds such as dandelions are close to releasing seeds, you will have to remove the seed heads (or even the flowers) by hand.

You need to watch out for rain. Systemic weedkillers need to be on the weed leaves for a certain length of time to ensure they have entered the plants. The instructions will tell you how long.

The weeds must be growing - actively growing.

You must not spray in wind, or the weedkiller might drift onto your favourite plants.

You need to keep your pets indoors until the weeds are dry, and watch your fish.


Most people feed, weed and mosskill their lawn by applying granular fertilizers. Nothing wrong with this. But they are much more difficult to use, and quite often cause scorching at this time of year, resulting in permanent damage to the lawn. A sprinkler is a good thing to have if you intend to use this type of weedkiller.

FOLLOW-UPS

Once the weeds have been killed, you might get the odd one germinating here and there. Instead of treating the whole lawn again, I use a spot weedkiller to zap them one by one. You can buy spot lawn weedkillers from garden centres, but it is cheaper to make up your own. I use an old kitchen spray, but you can buy small hand-hold sprayers.

A word of WARNING here. Make sure you are using a LAWN spot weeder, not a general purpose garden one. Lawn weedkillers are SELECTIVE - they kill the weeds but not the grass; general weedkillers (e.g. glyphosate) are not - they kill most growing green things.

Wear gloves and avoid inhaling the spray. Wash out everything thoroughly after use, especially the watering can. You need to be especially careful. Wash it out 3 or 4 times. Even better: buy one in a different colour just for weedkillers.

MOSS

Moss should not be a problem now, as it will die off in the dry summer weather. If you can buy it, 'GreenUp' (55.5% ferrous sulphate) is extremely good. 'GreenUp' (made by Vitax) contains no lawn feed, so can be given at any time. All you do is dilute it in water and apply with a watering can or sprayer. It will turn the moss black before your eyes. If your garden centre doesn't sell it, it is worth asking them to get it in stock. It is especially useful over winter when you can nip moss in the bud without applying feed. If you wait till spring (the traditional method), it is too late: much of the grass will have been killed.

A cheaper way of killing moss than using 'GreenUp' is to use ferrous sulphate crystals. These can be bought from fertizer suppliers.

Dealing With Ground Elder

ssGround Elder is one of those really difficult perennial weeds which always seem to establish themselves around the roots of our plants and/or in other difficult positions. Its roots spread out far and wide and are difficult to fully access. If not completely removed, it can re-grow from bits of root left in the ground.

Here it is under paving, wrapped around the roots of a conifer hedge, where it is virtually impossible to dig out. Until recently no weedkillers were capable of destroying it without also destroying the hedge.

Glyphosate has changed all this. This is a systemic weedkiller which can enter through the leaf pores (stomata) and travel in the sap down to the roots, thus making it possible to kill the weed. Unlike previous systemic weedkillers, it is inactivated in the soil, so presents no risk of harming the hedge.

With the warmer weather approaching (we hope!), now is a good time to apply this weedkiller, which works much better when the weeds are growing quickly.

I use an old kitchen spray as a spot weeder to spray, especially the stomata on the underside of the leaves. You can buy glyphosate sprays in the garden centres. Take care only to treat the weed. And do not apply so much that it runs off.

Glyphosate is also available in gel form and comes in a bottle with a brush in the cap. This is useful where access is limited.

Always wear gloves when dealing with weedkillers, and be careful not to touch anything else before washing your hands.

Glyphosate is safe to wildlife and pets, once it has dried.

Get Hoeing

The recent rain has germinated annual weed seeds. This dry spell is an ideal time to get the hoe going, before these weeds start seeding. Because the soil is drying fast, be careful not to go too deep, since this will cause too much water loss. Keeping the hoe to the top 2 cm or so is sufficient to kill the weeds, which will shrivel in the sun.

Hoeing will also help keep the slugs at bay. These do not like moving on loose dry soil.

Because hoeing loosens the top layer of soil, it will sever the capillarity link between the soil surface and the lower layers. This prevents water wicking its way up to the surface of the soil and being lost to the atmosphere. In other words, hoeing in this way conserves water.

The loose surface layer will be very useful later in the summer, since it insulates the soil against the hot sun (because it contains more air). As it dries, it turns lighter in colour, thus lowering the surface temperature by reflecting the sun's rays. This also helps reduce water loss and helps the roots perform more efficiently.

Panned Soil

, beAs you can see, the recent heavy rain followed by sun has baked this soil surface into a hard crust (pan). This is partly because there is little structure in the soil to resist this, but mostly because it was broken up too finely before planting.

This pan needs to be broken up immediately, since it is preventing oxygen getting down to the roots. And roots cannot take in water without oxygen, contrary to what we might suppose. It is also preventing other essential gaseous exchange.

A Dutch hoe is an ideal tool to use, since this will also kill off any small weeds which might be gaining a hold.

To give a soil more structure, we can add organic matter to it in spring. This will be broken down by the soil micro-organisms to form humus which has the effect of sticking the finer particles together to form larger ones (crumbs). Not only do these allow gases to access and leave the soil more easily, but they also resist this panning.

An Untity Bed

The local Council must have forgotten about this bed! I include it because it is the result of being in too much of a hurry to plant, whilst weed seeds (mostly chickweed) are still in the ground.

Weeds have uncanny survival strategies which in many ways puts them head and shoulders above our cultivated plants:

They tend to germinate very quickly, enabling them to spring into life and get established first, allowing them to grab the food, water and often the light.

They usually have very short life cycles, enabling them to flower and produce seeds - many thousands of seeds - quickly - several times per year.

They tend to germinate at different times. i.e. They do not all germinate at once, unlike our cultivated plants. Many are left in the soil to re-infect later crops.

A FURTHER PROBLEM

Because these plants are very close together, it is impossible to get at the weeds - either with a hoe, a weedkiller, or even by hand (it is impossible to step into the bed without damaging the tulips and wallflowers).

If you have a bed which has been badly affected with weeds, plant by all means, but LEAVE SUFFICIENT SPACE BETWEEN THE PLANTS to run a Dutch hoe between them.

AND ANOTHER ONE

Even if it were possible to get at the weeds, any treatment would disturb the weeds and cause them to drop even more seeds.


I cannot stress how important it is, NEVER TO ALLOW WEEDS TO FLOWER AND PRODUCE SEED. Keep attacking them. Don't despair if your efforts seem to no avail at first; you will soon see a difference.

But just a small delay before planting can allow you to get rid of many weeds.

Weed Control Part 2

BEDS AND BORDERS

Non-chemical control

Ask most people how they weed their garden and they will tell you they wait until the last moment (until the weeds are full of seeds), then get down on their knees, usually on wet ground, and dig into the soil surface around the weeds with a hand fork. Having loosened the soil, they proceed to pull out the weeds by hand.

I have tried for years to tell people that not only is this the most laborious and time-consuming method, it is also very inefficient. Needless to say, my efforts have been in vain. They carry on with the same technique. It's as if they need to suffer to feel worth their stripes; they just could not live with themselves if they didn't suffer.

So, in case what I am about to reveal falls once more on deaf ears, I want you to know that I understand. Nevertheless, I am going to tell you anyway:

This implement is called a 'Dutch' or a 'D' hoe. As far as I am concerned, it could be the most valuable tool in any garden tool shed (Yes, I know it doesn't look very valuable, but hear me out).

Hand forks are useful in that they loosen the soil, thereby not only allowing weeds to be removed more easily, but also causing the surface layer to dry out. This drying starves young weeds of vital moisture down to a depth of upto 10 centimetres (4 inches), which slows down growth. Add this to the fact that the soil looks more attractive after weeding, and it has to be said that it is not all bad for this method.

As far as I am concerned, the problems are really five-fold:

Firstly, too much loosening causes unnecessary water loss from the soil, depriving not just the weeds but also our plants. And of course, because young weeds can usually survive with less water than our cultivated plants, this process actually favours weed production (especially if the weeds have ripe seedheads. A new crop of weeds is planted as the old ones are handled).

Secondly, deep digging often disturbs the roots of our valuable plants.

Thirdly, valuable top soil clinging to the roots of the weeds is lost, unless these weeds are recycled through home-made compost.

Fourthly, digging brings up old weed seeds which have been buried too deep to germinate.

Fifthly, digging with a hand fork does little to kill those weeds too small to be pulled (and sometimes seen). All it really does is move them around, and slow down the growth process a little due to reduced water availability.


Consequently, weeding this way becomes a never-ending (and dreaded) task, which might need repeating at weekly, or even daily, intervals.

WELCOME TO THE NINETEENTH CENTURY!

I don't know exactly when the 'Dutch' hoe was invented. I am supposing it must have been around since the Industrial Revolution. It has been used extensively in horticulture ever since.

A 'Dutch' hoe can be skimmed back and fore at varying heights beneath the soil surface. Using it just beneath the soil surface cuts through most weed stems between the root and the soil surface.

With annual weeds, regeneration is impossible. The root will die back into the soil.

With perennial weeds, whose roots store food, they might throw up new growth, but any food reserves will soon be depleted and persistent treatment will kill the young weeds. Older weeds will also be weakened and eventually die off (I sometimes help them along with a little Glyphosate weedkiller applied with a hand spray).

DISADVANTAGES
This technique can be a bit strenuous first time, especially if the soil has become really compacted. But it will be much much easier next time.

It does tend to leave either a flaky or dry powdery surface. But this is ideal for conserving water and deterring slugs.

It is possible to acidentally chop through the stems of our dearly beloveds. But a narrow 10 centimetre (4 inch) blade helps avoid this. I find that this size of blade will remove most weeds in my garden. Yes, it may not get to all the weeds; but nothing is perfect, is it?

TIME SAVING
The time saved versus the hand digging method is absolutely colossal. Once you have the weeds under control, any garden can be quickly skimmed over. A job that might have taken hours can be done literally in minutes - and far more efficiently!

LABOUR SAVING
There is no need to bend down. Small weeds will quickly shrivel to nothing if left on the surface on a dry day. This method might look a bit unsightly at first, but if you come back the next day, it should be hard to find any dead weeds. I don't know where they go to. This is one of those eternal mysteries of this world. But go they do.

WATER SAVING
This technique is especially beneficial for water conservation, particularly around young plants with immature root systems.

WEATHER CONDITIONS
Although best done on a dry sunny day, it is effective in any weather.

What are you waiting for? Now is the time to get on top of weeds, before they become too established and shed seeds. Get out there and start hoeing!

Weed Control Part 1

BEDS AND BORDERS

My advice on weed control is simple: NEVER LET THEM FLOWER AND DROP SEEDS - EVER!

If, instead of looking at them through the window, we could summon up the courage to go out and pull them up or chop them down as soon as we see their flower heads developing, then we would be well on the way to controlling this problem.

And if, along with this, we could refrain from digging, things would improve even quicker. Digging not only chops up weed roots, often producing many new plants (on perennial weeds such as dandelion, thistle etc), it also brings buried weed seeds to the surface where they can germinate. I very rarely dig my garden, not without a good cause, at least.

Probably the most common mistake novice growers make is to turn over a patch of ground which has been covered in weeds for generations, then sow it or plant it immediately. What invariably happens is that the weeds spring up first. And by the time new growers realise that they are looking at a wonderful crop of weeds, these have often become well-enough established to make removal virtually impossible.

Can I give a word of advice:

Don't be in a hurry. In the above situation, leaving the freshly-dug ground exposed without planting for just a few weeks will be long enough to germinate most weeds. Let them grow to a height of about 2 to 3 centimetres (1 to1.5 inches), then wage an all-out attack, preferably when the surface soil is dry.

How?

Chemical
Non-chemical

CHEMICAL
When applying weedkiller, it is advisable to use one which will not enter the soil. This enables us to sow or plant almost immediately.

There are two useful weedkillers available to the public in the UK:
Diquat (Sold under the brand name 'Weedol')
Glyphosate (Sold as 'Tumlbeweed', 'Roundup', Supermarket Own Brands etc)

Each has its own characteristics:

Diquat
Contact - kills anything green it touches. Not absorbed into plant. Does not kill roots
Quick-acting - works almost instantly
Works in cooler temperatures. Plants need not be growing actively
Toxic

Glyphosate
Systemic - absorbed into plant and moves around inside it. Kills roots
Slower-acting - takes several week to kill weed
Needs warmer conditions when weeds growing actively
Toxic

As you can see, Diquat is the only weedkiller which will work quickly enough in the cooler spring conditions. Glyphosate can be used on the difficult perennial weeds which later re-germinate.

WARNING:

Although Diquat might appear to be a blessing from Up Above, we need to bear in mind that it is TOXIC. If it must be used, gloves should be worn, and care taken that it does not come into contact with the skin or eyes. Also take care not to inhale any fumes.

Having said that, it is fantastic for killing difficult annual weeds such as chickweed among roses. Since it only kills green tissue, it does not affect the woody stems of the roses but kills the chickweed within a day.

It is also useful for killing long grass so that it can be burned.

However, I still do not recommend its use.

GLYPHOSATE
I find a mixture of glyphosate in a hand sprayer (an old kitchen or bathroom cleaner spray bottle) is useful for spot weeding difficult perennial weeds such as dandelion, docks, thistles, bindweed etc. Although it takes time to work, even in warm weather, it is nevertheless effective.

However, since it is non-selective and will affect all plants, it cannot be used on a lawn.

Nevertheless, since it is inactivated upon touching the soil, it is useful for weeds under hedges and around shrubs, providing it is not actually sprayed onto them.

I am not really sure about its toxicity. I used to think it was safe for pets. But I am now having doubts. Perhaps you can enlighten me. Best to assume the worst and keep the pets away. Again, gloves should be used during use, along with precautions mentioned above.

WEATHER CONDITIONS
Follow instructions carefully, especially with regard to concentrations and appropriate weather conditions. Weedkillers should not be used in windy or wet conditions.

To Cut Or Not To Cut

The lawn has really started growing now during the warmer wet weather.

I have been looking at it all week, agonising over when to cut it (Yes, I know I should get bigger and better things to worry about. And yes, I know it is only a lawn. But that's how I am: and this is only the start of it! I could get seriously worried about me. Do you think there is any hope?). In case you're wondering what could possibly be so worrying, let me explain:

As we saw in the article on spring feeding, we are in the last few weeks of active root development for our lawn grasses. And since I want to make the lawn as drought-resistant as possible, I want to take full advantage of this.

All plants grow better as their leaf surface increases, because there is more food produced to fuel growth; grass is no exception. However, we are limited as to how long (physically) we can let it grow. Although I shall be explaining all this later on, here are a few factors to consider:

• Never cut a lawn grass down by more than half. Since I am using a cylinder mower (an old steam model) with a maximum cutting height of 0.75 inches, and since this mower will not cut long grass without flattening it, I want to be cutting it when it gets to somewhere in the region of 1.5 inches long (If the mower had allowed, it would be 2 inches).
• Never cut a lawn when it is too wet. We have had a good drying wind this weekend, but a return to winter, with snow, is forecast. Leaving the lawn might let it get too long.
• Try to keep the lawn at a constant height. Letting it get too long presents it with too much of a shock from which it will waste time recovering.
• Leaving grass too long thins the turf too much.
• There are visitors to the neighbourhood and I don't want them to see an untidy lawn . . .

I could go on and on. But I am sure you have got the message. Things are rarely clear-cut with growing. Appropriate action is always a matter of carefully considering available options. This is why it is more of an art than a science. But this is also what makes it so challenging and rewarding (when we get it right). Increasing our knowledge and understanding helps us to make better decisions.

Anyway, as you can see, I decided to cut it.

Feeding a Lawn in Spring

We all know that lawns stop growing in winter. However, growth only stops on the surface. Down below, the grass is making a brand new root system. This process begins in the autumn as the darker nights approach and continues through till late spring, with perhaps a break during the depths of winter. In late spring, root growth stops and leaf growth takes over.

This is illustrated very well by this Minnesota Sustainable Urban Landscape Information Series publication which, lower page, shows the growth pattern of Cool Season grasses, the types we use in the UK.

As you will see, the Seasonal Plant Growth is still favouring root growth at this time of year. Grass does not really start growing in earnest until mid April, depending upon the weather.

Many people are in the garden centres right now buying high nitrogen feeds which stimulate leaf growth. The problem is that, if we do this too early, the roots stop growing prematurely. So when the dry weather comes, the grass has insufficient root to provide moisture, and consequently turns brown.

As I said in my article on moss, we want to build up the grass to replace the moss. And, consistent with our theme, the best way to do this is to develop the roots; then we can later concentrate on leaf growth.

How do we do grow roots?

We apply an autumn feed at the recommended rate. These might still be available in garden centres. They are often sold off cheaply at this time of year.

However, we need to be careful here since most autumn feeds contain ferrous sulphate to kill moss. If you have a moss problem and are willing to tolerate it turning black, then there is no problem. But can I make a suggestion?

Feeds can be supplied in either granular or liquid form. Since there is no time to waste, it would be best to use liquid since this will get into the plant quicker, through the leaves and down to the roots. Granules can be used, but apart from the fact that they are usually mixed with moss killer, they take about 2 weeks to start working and might need watering in if there is a dry spell.

If you cannot get a liquid autumn feed without moss killer, I recommend Phostrogen All Purpose Plant Food, the one in the orange box. It is not sold as a lawn feed (that's the one in the green box which we may be using later), but is high in water-soluble phosphate to nourish the roots.

APPLY AS LIQUID
Mix 20mls per 2 gallons in a watering can and apply this over 4 square metres. Continue every 2 weeks until you see improvement.

This is a good way to apply feed evenly without scorching. The trick is to get a coarsish rose. Mine lets me spread the can over about 20 sq metres very quickly.

This is rather a lot of work, especially on a large lawn. What I do is wait for rain to be forecast then apply at 100 mls per 2 galls per 20 square metres. Or you could use a Phostrogen feeder on the end of a hosepipe; or attach an applicator to your sprinkler.

APPLY AS SOLID
These new hand-held spinners are really good for granular lawn feeds. I tried mine last year and was very impressed. Only problem is that it is difficult to control edges, so could not use with weedkiller or moss killer since this would trespass on borders. It should work with dry Phostrogen. Apply at 5 mls per square metre every 2 weeks. Best put on dry grass when rain is due.



If your lawn is not too bad, or you have already applied an autumn feed, then wait another month when we shall be giving high nitrogen feed.

Moss in Lawn

Moss can look lovely in the right setting; it looks positively awful in the lawn, especially as it dries out and turns brown during the summer months.

If left untreated, it can quickly colonise a lawn, replacing the grass almost completely. This is especially a problem in damp shady conditions.

I don't think I need tell you what moss is. But here's something you might not know:
The time to tackle moss (if indeed you decide to do this) is not in the spring, as most growers suppose (and as most gardening books recommend). No. The time to tackle it is in early autumn (August in the UK) when it recommences growth during the warm dewy nights. At this time it can be nipped in the bud and kept under control.

This is not to say that it cannot be controlled in spring - it can. Modern moss killers will turn it black before your very eyes - literally. It can be killed in seconds. However, as you might be aware, killing it is not the problem; the problem is the unsightly mess that is left behind.

Gardening books tell us to rake this dead moss out immediately. Nothing wrong with this. But unfortunately it leaves a lawn devoid of grass, resembling the leftovers of a nuclear holocaust. And it can look this way for several months until the grass has had time to get going and fill in the bare patches.

Many gardeners think that raking the moss out in this way will prevent its re-establishment. I don't think this is true. I think just the opposite. Disturbing it too much will help spread the spores (the moss's equivalent of seeds) to other uninfected parts of the lawn. These will lie dormant till autumn.

It is supposed that moss killers kill these spores. Not true. As far as I know, only mercuric chloride (the old-fashioned moss killer, no longer available) will kill spores. Ferrous sulphate, the common moss killer, will not.

When we consider as well the enormous effort needed to rake a lawn efficiently, added to the above, I think there has to be a good case for leaving it alone.
This might sound horrific, but it is not so silly as it seems.

Since we cannot kill the spores and prevent re-infection, and since the moss dies out anyway in dry weather, what benefit is there in killing it off in the spring?

Provided it is not too unsightly, and that water can pass through it to the lawn, my suggestion is to leave it alone (and green) for now and concentrate on reviving the remaining grass so that it will be ready to take over as the warmer months approach, filling in as the moss dies back, and subsequently hiding its brown colour. This avoids the unsightly mess. It also saves us much time and effort whilst avoiding adding chemicals to the soil.

The moss will rot down in the turf as it dies back, leaving the grass. Then we can tackle it when it resumes growth in August. Hopefully, by that time we should have a decent lawn.

That's the theory, anyway. I have used this principle for several years. It has worked well for me. I hope it will work for you.

The Bane

LAWN

This lawn is the bane of my life. Every year there seems to be a different problem. Every year I come within a cat's whisker of digging it up. But I never have - not yet, anyway. Somehow, it always seems to recover. And I like the challenge of fixing it at least cost. It has become an old friend, an old passion of mine.

Looks a bit better, but not much. Gave it a quick comb through with electric raker five days ago. These tools are wonderful. It only took a few minutes. Would have taken me hours with a hand rake. Still much dead stuff left in. But I don't want it bare at this time of year; it would spend half the season recovering. I'm not really bothered by dead stuff, as it will rot down during season. At least the water can get to the surface now. And at least the moss has gone.

Not sure what is wrong with lawn, but think most of trouble could be due to prolonged winter conditions.

I gave it a heavy dressing of Autumn feed (with ferrous sulphate mosskiller) in February. I wanted to stop the moss in its tracks, as it was getting a hold again. Silly thing to do. I always wondered why we shouldn't apply chemicals in freezing conditions. Now I know! Matters were made worse because there was no rain to wash it in.

Normally we get some growth intervals in the winter, when the temperature rises above 6 deg C. This hasn't happened this year.

Might be some disease in lawn. Have decided to ignore this for now and leave it alone to see what happens.

I am trying to discover how to make it drought-resistant by growing deeper roots. Needless to say, I haven't quite got there yet.

Jimini Waters Pot Plants Part 3

IMPORTANT: THE AUTHOR CAN ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR PARTICIPATION IN THE FOLLOWING TECHNIQUE. UNFORTUNATELY, PARTICIPATION MUST BE ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK.

On no account should you use this technique on bulbs, corms or water-sensitive tubers such as begonias.

Now is a particularly good time of year to use this technique, since the plant is just about to start growing actively.

However, because it has been such an unusual season so far, I would be happiest if your plants are actually using water.

Many plants slow right down over the winter months, and if they don't actually become dormant, they like to have a period of rest. Make sure that they are not still resting and that there is ample green growth. Even better if they are about to flower.

One final check: Make sure there is a drainage hole in the bottom of the pot and that it is not blocked.


RIGHT, I HAVE DITHERED LONG ENOUGH. NOW FOR THE ACTION.

It's really very simple:

DROWN THE PLANT WITH WATER.

Yes, you heard me:

FILL A BUCKET, A BOWL, OR THE SINK WITH CLEAN WATER AND FULLY SUBMERGE THE POT SO THE WATER REACHES THE TOP OF THE COMPOST.

Now can you see why I was being a bit cautious?

Of course, I didn't literally mean DROWN ( I only said this for dramatic effect ). After all, our objective is to make it more alive.

The point here is to ensure that there are no dry pockets of compost around the roots. This can easily happen when we water in the traditional way. Water passes through the surface compost and finds a quick way down - a shortcut - to the bottom of the pot (this is often down the sides), leaving the compost around the roots bone dry.

To avoid this, leave the pot in water for about an hour, or until it is thoroughly saturated. If you find it difficult to wet the compost, dry adding a drop of wash-up liquid to the water to act as a wetting agent.

How do you know it is saturated?

The weight. It should weigh virtually the same as the pot filled to the same depth with water alone.

AFTER IT IS SATURATED, ALLOW TO DRAIN AND REPLACE IN ITS GROWING POSITION.

That's all there is to it.

FUTURE WATERINGS
Once we have saturated the compost this way we should continue the technique. This will allow the plant to develop lots of large luscious blooms.

Just to put your mind at rest, I have not watered my Geraniums, this year, for the past month or so. It does not seem to have done them any harm. ( It never does ) They are just starting to bud up, now. Things look really promising. They have been for the past four years. Believe it or not, they have hardly ever stopped flowering in that time. This method really suits them. And I think you will find, it will suit virtually all plants.

The irony is that it is especially beneficial for hard-to-water plants like African Violets and Cyclamens, provided that we don't submerge them completely.

Jimini Waters Pot Plants Part 2

It should be at least 4 days now since you last watered your plants. Of course - I understand if you got a little frightened when you saw the state of my Geraniums and decided to water your plants in the usual manner. And who can blame you?

But can I make something quite clear: I do not recommend that you take your watering to this extreme, not yet, anyhow.

METHOD IN THE MADNESS

In case you are wondering why on earth I use this drastic treatment, the answer is simple:

IT IS ABOUT GROWING THOSE ROOTS.

Plants are like we humans. They only do as much as they need to (I know this does not apply to ALL humans, but it certainly applies to me).

And nothing seems to induce root production faster than the following:

• Diminishing water


• Diminishing food
  

But don't plants grow roots anyway, without our help?

Yes. But these roots are not as developed as they could be. The problem we have as growers is that we do not appreciate just how much water plants can extract from the soil or compost. They are so efficient at this that they can remove almost every single drop.

And it is only when water gets down to these lower levels that the plant gets worried enough to produce extra roots.

But there is also another reason why this drying out is beneficial:

IT AERATES THE COMPOST

As the soggy compost dries out from the surface down, air is forced in to replace the water. Not only is this good for the compost, allowing the living organisms to funcion better, it is also good for the roots, allowing them to be even more efficient at gathering and absorbing water and nutrients.


WATER TOLERANCE OF PLANTS

Different types of plant have different tolerances to soil moisture levels, usually indicative of their native environment.

Woodland plants (Primulas, for example) need a constantly moist (but not wet) soil; desert plants (Cacti, for example) almost dry.

Water requirements of your plants are also dependent upon where you keep them. Thus plants on a south-facing window sill, perched above a radiator, will require much more water than the same plant would on the kitchen window sill.

So how do we know how to treat them?

We experiment. We take them to extremes of moisture, carefully observing the effects. I know that my Geraniums are gasping for water. And don't worry, we shall be giving it some soon enough. But first I want you to learn to recognise this extreme. And a good way to do this it to weigh the pot.

When I say 'weight the pot', I don't necessary mean that you literally weigh it. Although it might not be a bad idea. I find that just picking it up is sufficient. And can I just say that I am always amazed at how light this Geranium pot will have become.

A SAFER METHOD

Rather than risk damaging the plant by over-drying, you might prefer to fill an identical pot with fresh compost and note its weight. True, it might be a bit heavier than we might prefer, but you might be able to rest easier.

When deciding when to water plants, always bear the following in mind:

Plants can invariably recover from too little water; too much, on the other hand, is almost always fatal.

Roots Are Hoots

I want to say something about roots. I used to think they were boring (What? You do as well?), just that part of a plant best buried underground. It took me years to discover I was wrong. Now I consider them so important that if I had my way I would have them on show and bury the leaves and flowers (No I wouldn't).

But seriously, if we wish to become better growers, we need to think more about growing these than we do about anything else; we need to learn how to grow them big and strong.

Has this thought ever occurred to you? No, it hadn't to me either. I was always more concerned with things above ground. Yet it's so obvious. Roots are the the plant's foundation.

I never really got beyond considering the foundation as a good anchorage in the soil. Yes, I knew that roots also provided food and water for the growth process, but the penny never dropped, not really.

Then one day it hit me that the bigger the root system, the more food and water the plant can receive; consequently it can grow bigger, stronger and faster. This was a Eureka moment. It changed my whole growing philosophy.

The number of times I had dug up a failing plant to examine its roots (this is the first thing you should do when you encounter trouble). Yet it never dawned on me that growing was about growing these roots - not leaves, stems and flowers.

I don't mean that these are unimportant. Far from it. But when I dug up my best plants at the end of the season, they always had the biggest and strongest root systems. If we can grow roots, everything else seems to follow. Or if we look at it another way, when was the last time you found a strong root system on a sickly plant? Never, I'll wager.

Jimini Waters Pot Plants Part 1

IMPORTANT: THE AUTHOR ACCEPTS NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY TECHNIQUES DESCRIBED ON THIS BLOG. PARTICIPATION MUST BE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Need to water the plants today? Do yourselves (both you and the plants) a favour. Don't water them today. Nor tomorrow. Nor the next day. Nor the day after . . . In fact, perhaps not this week . . . nor next week . . . nor the week after . . .. Perhaps you could even wait a month? (If you need to wait two months, then it's not me you should be seeing, it's the psychiatrist. The situation is beyond hope.)

What? Not water them? Surely, they'll die.

Wrong. This might be the best thing you can do for them. Indeed, if you find your plants wilting and dying early on in life, even though you've watered them regularly, this almost certainly WILL be the best thing.

Now, before we go any further, let's be clear about one thing. If that plant you were about to water is Great Aunt Bertha's treasured beloved - You know, the one Great Uncle Albert gave her for the fiftieth wedding anniversary - the one you've been entrusted with whilst they are away, then hold on. It's not that this technique will not work. It most certainly will. At least, the first part will - Great Aunt Bertha will probably have over-watered it - even this plant will be gasping for air.

So, what's the problem? Well, it's just with it being Great Aunt Bertha's. It's making me nervous. And, as you know, nothing's ABSOLUTELY foolproof. There is always some chance that something could go wrong. And anyway, you don't want her thinking that you have neglected it whilst she has been away. See the point?

Before I talk myself out of disclosing anything to you, let me tell you that this technique has never failed - ever. And several persons to whom I have recommended it have had success. Just try it in a small way first.

A principle of growing this way is: WAIT ANOTHER DAY.

But suppose you can't? Suppose you are so convinced that your plants need water that you feel yourself dashing for the watering can right now? What then?

Well, consider the following:

• Are the plants wilting or showing signs of changing colour?
• Is the compost dry to a depth of about one inch or more?
• Is the compost shrinking away from the edge of the pot?
• Does the pot feel like it's nearly empty when you pick it up?
  

These are all signs that water might be necessary. However, unless the plant is growing actively, and preferably in bud, then another day or so without water will do it good.

If it makes you feel better, have a look at these pot Geraniums (Pelargoniums). Can you see how there is some dead leaf?

And here, can you see how the leaf is changing colour at the edge?

I regularly treat my Geraniums this way, especially in the winter months when they are hardly growing. It does them the world of good. I'll explain why soon.