How Frost Damages Plant Cells

An interesting report from the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations states that it is the formation of ice within a plant which causes frost damage, not the sudden change in temperature. A turgid (full to capacity) cell's liquid contents expand as they freeze and can rupture the cell wall. This damage within individual cells is called 'intracellular'. It often occurs when temperatures drop below freezing point very quickly.

If temperatures fall more slowly, the liquid in the cell has more time to be forced outside through the cell wall. If it freezes here, the damage is called 'extracellular'. It has the effect of forcing the plant cells apart and dehydrating the cells.

DROP IN TEMPERATURE IMPORTANT, NOT LENGTH OF FREEZE
Within a reasonable amount of time (less than 24 hours), it is not so much the time endured at freezing temperatures which affects the degree of damage, but the amount of the drop - the lowest temperatures causing the most damage.

DROUGHT-RESISTANCE IMPORTANT
If ice forms outside the cell (extracellular), even though the cell wall remains undamaged the plant can be slowly killed. This is because the saturation vapour pressure is lower over ice than over liquid water, causing water to move out of the cell towards the ice, and thus death by dehydration.

FROST HARDENING
However, if exposed gradually, plants can harden themselves against frost damage in the following ways:

• removal of water from cell contents, making them more concentrated. This has two effects:
• it lowers the freezing point, and acts as a kind of antifreeze
• it makes the cell flaccid, thus pulling the contents away from the wall and thus making room for frost expansion (see diagram)

• decreasing ice-nucleation active (INA) bacteria concentrations during cold periods, thus allowing super-cooling to occur (cooling of contents below freezing point without the formation of ice crystals)

This hardening occurs naturally as a season become progressively colder. However, a warm spell can cause a reversal to occur much quicker than the hardening, especially if growth is resumed.

Fuchsias Short of Light

These etiolated (stretched) fuchsia cuttings are short of light for the temperatures at which they have been grown. This often happens at this time of year as light intensity falls quicker than temperatures.

The solution is to either move to a lighter place, or lower the temperature (this might have already happened as the autumn has progressed).

Etiolation is a common problem with window sills. And, unfortunately, it is not usually possible to remedy. Should this be the case, I would recommend leaving things for now, then cutting back the leggy growth in February when the light will be stronger.

Typical Plant Cell's Structure and Functions

A typical plant or animal cell is comprised of a filling of cytoplasm containing various organelles, including a nucleus, all enclosed in a plasma membrane. Both plant and animal cells are very similar, except plant cells have a cellulose cell wall around the plasma membrane, plastids (e.g. chloroplasts) and a conspicuous vacuole.

Each organelle has its own special function. Do not burden yourself with these at this stage. This is 'purely for the record':

Cell Wall

The primary cell wall consists mostly of layers of cellulose microfibrils, surrounding the plasma membrane. As the cell develops, further layers of microfibrils are laid down in different directions.

Cellulose has a tensile strength (ability to resist extension) approaching that of steel (cotton consists mostly of cellulose). So once turgid (filled with liquid), the cell is well-supported. The microfibrils are given further strength and support by running through and linking with a matrix of hemicelluloses and pectins.

Further strengthening is achieved by laying down the woody compound lignin.

Between the cells is an adhesive layer of the sticky gel-like magnesium and calcium salts (pectates) of pectins; it is called the middle lamella and holds neighbouring cells together.

Plasma Membrane

This is rather like a balloon which surrounds the cell contents. However, it can selectively allow certain materials into and out of the cell. Some materials are always allowed through; others regulated; others rejected. Thus the cell can, against the laws of diffusion, if necessary maintain a constitution different from its surroundings.

Nucleus

This is the control centre of the cell activity, especially the regulation of genetic material DNA. DNA is contained on the chromosomes and is replicated (according to information encoded in the genes) along with the chromosomes, during normal cell division (mitosis), so that each new cell is identical to its sibling; it is also replicated at gamete formation in sexual reproduction (meiosis). The nucleus is surrounded by a double membrane called the nuclear envelope.

Nucleolus

This is a darkened area within the nucleus and is the site of ribosome production.

Chloroplasts

These contain the enzymes necessary for photosynthesis, plus the green pigment chlorophyll which has the function of absorbing light energy, and gives plants their typical green colour.

Ribosomes

The site of protein synthesis, according to instructions given to RNA from DNA in the nucleus. RNA carries these instructions out of the nucleus and into the ribosomes.

Mitochondria

The site of energy production, the powerhouse of the cell, through a process called 'respiration'. Respiration is the reverse of photosynthesis and releases energy from the carbohydrate glucose.

Endoplasmic Reticulum

A network of parallel membranes which extends throughout the cell. If associated with ribosomes (rough endoplasmic reticulum), its function is to manufacture proteins; if not (smooth endoplasmic reticulum), it is associated with lipid (fat) synthesis.

Golgi Apparatus

This collects, processes and distributes materials to be used inside and outside the cell, e.g. enzymes, and cellulose for cell walls.

Vacuole

A major function of this organ is cell 'skeletal' support. As it takes in water, it extends and makes the cell 'turgid' by forcing the contents against the wall. It also acts as temporary storage for various materials.

Microtubules

A support cell, forming the 'cytoskeleton'. It forms the spindle, a structure used in cell division.

Microfilaments

Also part of the 'cytoskeleton'. They control 'cytoplasmic streaming', the movement of cytoplasm within the cell, allowing the movement of chloroplasts to take advantage of changing light directions during the day.

Plasmodesmata

Pores through which plasma membranes of adjacent cells can connect through tubes (desmotubules) of endoplasmic reticulum. Allows regulated transport between cells.

Winter Geraniums Don't Like Dampness

The fungus mould (probably botrytis) developing on these geranium (pelargonium) leaves is caused by keeping them in too-damp conditions.

After lifting them from the garden and potting them in sterilized soil, I left them in a cold porch at the back of the house, adjoining the kitchen. Of course, every time I have opened the kitchen door, warm damp air has condensed on the cold plants (they don't have to be COLD, just COOLER), leaving a film of water on the surface, ideal for fungus.

After removing the infected leaves, I have now brought them inside the house. Hopefully they will recover when they dry, and we can take some cuttings.

I know I keep repeating it, but you do need to be very careful about damp geraniums over the winter months. This sort of thing happens in garages, as well, when warm wet air from the car settles onto cooler surroundings.

see also Strip Geraniums Almost Bare

Time to Reflect

As the seasons change, new challenges emerge. This season is no different, as demonstrated by the recent unexpected hardish frost. Yet, strangely enough, I find the winter to be one of the most interesting (and certainly most challenging) of times.

Because most plants close down at this time, I suppose it sort of focuses the mind on the growth process of the odd few plants which are still active. Things are moving much more slowly - only ticking over - so there is time to observe (be warned: it's a bit like watching paint dry) and to reflect. And because resources (such as light and temperature) are limited, we are challenged to dig down deeper for creative solutions.

I think it true to say that I have learned more about growing, during the winter months than at any other time of year; and this despite my activities being more or less reduced to window ledges. Strange.

As far as this blog is concerned, I should now have time to discuss and explain all those things I didn't have time for during the season. And in addition, I have some interesting (at least I hope they will be interesting) projects in mind. The only problem is that I am very much in the dark as to whether they will work or not. I hope you don't mind that. But it is how I like to be: trying new ideas and techniques. Of course, needless to say, they usually do not work as intended.

Fuchsias Caught by Frost?

Sunday night's frost was hard for October - looks as if I might have been caught out with the outdoor fuchsias.

I had been awaiting a slight frost to kill the foliage, along with any insect pests living on them, before storing. Too much frost can kill the stems, as well. Still, 'no use crying . . .', so to speak. 'What's done is done', and all that. I put them into the garage before it started raining.

Once the dead leaves have decided to drop, I will completely remove them all, spray the plants with a pesticide, then the plants and compost surface with a fungicide, and await the worst. It should be obvious by mid February whether they have survived or not.

At least the compost is not too wet. Even so, I shall have to watch out for signs of botrytis appearing on any dead material lying on the compost.

NO LIGHT NEEDED IN STORAGE
Fuchsias can be stored in any frost-free place such as a garage or attic. They can even be buried in the ground. Light is not necessary until new growth commences.

What is a Semi-Ripe Cutting?

As plant stems age, they ripen (become harder). The youngest wood, just beneath the shoot tip, is very light and tender; the oldest wood, at the base of the stems, is harder and more woody in colour. Semi-ripe wood is the stuff between the two (in this case, red).

As far as cuttings are concerned, older wood is more difficult to propagate because it does not root so easily. Whilst some recommend hormone rooting powder, semi-ripe fuchsia cuttings will root without it in perlite kept moist with water. Simply insert about 1.25 cm (half an inch) of the cutting into damp perlite up to the second pair of leaves (make a hole first if necessary).

Keep moist by adding water to the container until it is just beneath the cutting. Roots appear in about two to three weeks at room temperature. Check for these by gently tugging the cutting.

Make a Concrete Floor Work for You

Most people I know protect their plants against the cold of a winter concrete floor by packing their plants on paper or timber.

I don't. I'm greatful to have one in my garage. Because of concrete's heat capacity, it acts like a huge storage heater on cold nights - very useful when air temperature drops below freezing point. Newspaper or similar over the plants prevents heat loss by radiation and holds in the air warmed by the floor. It also evens out the diurnal (day and night) temperature range.

Of course this only works if the concrete is above 0 deg C. But it would have to be an awfully cold (one which we have hardly ever - maybe even NEVER - had) for this to be the case, unless the plants are placed too close to an outside wall. This is because of the heat rising from the ground beneath the concrete.

If, however, plants are packed on newspaper or timber, this heating effect cannot work as well, and the plants are more exposed to the cold air temperatures.

Incidentally, a deep concrete floor has the same effect in a greenhouse, keeping it warmer in winter and cooler in summer.

Easy-Water Compost

If you don't like the idea of sterilizing soil in your microwave (and who can blame you?) and you find multi-purpose compost difficult to water, then you can lighten it with perlite/vermiculite. Perlite is especially good, since it is stable and holds on to moisture whilst allowing the compost to breathe.

Perlite/Compost Mix

• 1 part perlite
  
• 3 parts multi-purpose compost
  

For something with a little more weight, try:

Perlite/Sharp Sand/Compost Mix

• 1 part perlite
  
• 1 part sharp sand
  
• 6 parts multi-purpose compost
  

These mixtures should make watering much less hazardous. Perlite can be purchased in most garden centres/gardening stores. It's not expensive and is easy to use.

Containers Indoors

I took the opportunity to take containers of geraniums (pelargoniums) indoors before the weather broke whilst they were dry. There is still some water in the compost, enough to see them through the winter. I sprayed them with 'Systhane Fungus Fighter' (1.53 g/l myclbutanil) beforehand because of problems with leaf spot and botrytis.

The fuchsias and late begonias are still flowering well, despite the slight frost. They are close to walls in sheltered positions.

Storing Dahlia Tubers

The idea here is to keep the tubers cool enough and dry enough to prevent premature re-growth whilst taking care they do not get frosted. In practice, this means storing them between 4 - 10 deg C (40 - 50 deg F). This is not a problem if lifted at this time of year and stored in a frost-free outer building.

If you have space, I find it best to store them as they are, with the fleshy roots partly covered in soil. However, if space is limited, the roots can be split up and stored as individual tubers.

STORING UN-SEPARATED TUBERS
I lift my dahlias after the first frost (see 'Lifting Dahlia Tubers'), then leave them upside down to allow the moisture to drain out of the cut stems and the soil to partly dry out around the fleshy roots.

As the roots dry out they become softer and more rubbery. This is good, since it allows them to tolerate light frosts.

I then invert the roots back upright and place them into storage position. But I DO NOT COVER THEM.

I find it is the neck of the tubers (the part where the swollen root joint the stem) which is most vulnerable, especially to insect larvae attack and to over-wetness. Leaving them open to dry air allows the necks and stems to dry out. "Derris" dust helps control insects.

I only cover them in mid December to protect them against the most severe of frosts, though this is probably not necessary. I am always amazed at how well they survive outside in 5 cm (20 inch) containers exposed to the full winter weather, even though the roots are very close to the surface. However, storage in smaller containers causes problems; they will not tolerate completely frozen compost.

STORING INDIVIDUAL TUBERS
After careful removal of the soil, it is usually possible to prise a single tuber away from the rest, complete with a short piece of attached stem. These can be washed if required, and any wounds should definitely be treated with yellow sulphur powder to prevent fungal infection.

Place in the refrigerator, taking care that they do not get too near to the cooler. Many growers say they store them in polythene bags, but I don't like the idea of this because they tend to sweat. And the last thing we want is a wet tuber. However, we don't want one which is too dry, either. I think I would be inclined to wrap them in kitchen towel, then place them in a polythene bag - full of holes - if they were drying out too much.

If they are dusted in sulphur, they would better tolerate slight moisture. And they might store best like this.

Examine them often for signs of disease, especially over the first few weeks. Remove problem tubers.

Insect Pests on Over-Wintering Dahlia Tubers

Slugs, earwigs (pictured) and wireworms are all serious pests which can over-winter with stored dahlia tubers. Of these, I have found wireworms to cause the worst damage, since they attack the necks and render the tubers useless; the other two attack the young plants during the next growing season.

Although I have never stored tubers individually, complete removal of soil and a thorough washing is obviously ideal for removing pests, along with their eggs. If the pest problem is severe, this might justify the increased risk of loss of tubers through disease (especially if tubers were dusted with sulphur powder).

So far, this has not proved necessary. I have found a dusting with "Derris" dust ('0.2% w/w rotenone') effective against wireworms. The others are removed with the soil just prior to planting. Though, to be honest, I haven't really had a problem with earwigs before. It might be worth spraying tubers with 'Provado Vine Weevil Killer' (9g/l 'thiacloprid') at some stage.

Daffodils in Pots Planted

Lifting the dahlias has made room for spring bulbs. The bulbs planted in pots have now rooted and have been planted 20 cm (4 inches) below the top of the bulbs. There is no sign of shoot development yet.

Lifting Dahlia Tubers

Decided to lift all dahlias and put them into store over winter. Recent rains has left soil in ideal condition for lifting - not too wet, yet not too dry.

It is important to use a fork or spade deep enough to reach the bottom of the tubers, if damage it to be avoided. I use a fork.

• Insert fork to full depth about 25 - 30 cm (10 - 12 inches) away from stems and pull handle backwards with one hand whilst pulling foliage with other hand. Take care not to pull foliage too hard, to avoid tearing.
• Cut down stems to within 5 cm (2 inches) of tubers, then label.
• Dust neck of tuber with "Derris" dust. This is where wireworms seem to attack in storage.
• Invert tuber to drain moisture out of stems.
• Leave inverted for a few weeks to cure (tubers go soft and rubbery, and are able to withstand more frost).

A Good Dry Spell

The recent dry and frost-proof weather has given everything a chance to dry out, especially the pots and containers.

Although I have lifted a few early-flowering plants for storage, the majority of the garden is still in nearly full-bloom. I like to see a light frost kill the foliage before cutting back and storing, since this tends to kill any bugs, as well.

I take pots of geraniums and other delicates indoors just before the frost arrives. This gives them the best opportunity to dry out.

Anything planted deep in the soil (e.g. dahlias) do not need lifting. They might keep best in the ground, provided it does not get too wet for too long. I am leaving mine in for now, but will be lifting some soon.

Do not put wet plants into storage.

Storing Border Geraniums Over Winter

STORAGE IN AN OUT-BUILDING
For over-wintering in an outside building (garage or shed), I store them with some soil around the roots. They can be dug up carefully and placed straight into pots, then left to dry out naturally in airy conditions. Do not to use too small a pot; they tend to do best when it is at least 5 inches (12.5 cm). Do not water till spring.

Do not cover until it is really necessary, usually in late December to mid February. I only cover when hard frost is forecast, then remove covering between frosts. Keeping them dry is the plan.

STORAGE INDOORS
The above method can also be used indoors. However, to avoid discovering any little strangers (creepy-crawlies) on the window sill, it might be wise to sterilize the soil. This is especially wise this year, since fungal leaf spot has been a problem. Sterilization will prevent it over-wintering in the soil.

As described elsewhere, a microwave oven is useful for sterilization.

Over-Watered Geranium

The bits of fungus on the edges of these yellowing geranium (pelargonium) leaves are a clue to over-watering as the cause of its condition. I found this limp-leafed plant in a state of semi-collapse one morning last week.

It is very easy to over-water plants at this time of year, since they are changing their watering requirements, and day-to-day humidity (and hence drying) is varying so much.

Since the roots are fine (white), the plant should recover naturally if left without water for a few days. This will give the compost a chance to dry out.

Lifting Begonia Tubers

As seen here, I remove foliage down to within 7.5 cm (3 inches) of soil/compost level. It is best not to remove the stalks at this time; they die naturally in storage and can be removed easily.

After carefully digging around the tuber (don't forget to allow for an increase in size through season's growth), I prise them from the compost, then leave them in dry air to dry.

You don't have to do this. They can be left in the compost over winter, provided it is not too wet. But they seem to store best with some dry soil/compost (about 1 to 2 cm) around the tuber, and will stand quite a bit of frost in this condition.

The soil/compost is removed by carefully easing it away from around the tuber, taking care not to damage it (I find tubers are very delicate when just dug up). If tubers are accidentally damaged, open wounds can be dusted with yellow sulphur powder to prevent fungal spores getting in.

Some growers recommend treating with 'Thiacloprid' ('Provado Vine Weevil Killer') to kill vine weevil grubs at this stage. I don't. I let them over-winter, then remove them in spring before the roots have resumed growth. This way, if the tuber is damaged, it doesn't matter so much.

Lifting Border Geraniums in Autumn

Although they will stand some slight frost, it is usually wise to be safe and lift border geraniums (pelargoniums) in time.

TREATMENT WITH FUNGICIDE
This is the first time I have ever treated my plants with a fungicide before lifting. I removed all infected leaves, then sprayed the foliage with 'Systhane Fungus Fighter' and allowed it to dry. I am concerned about the fungal leaf spot.

For clean soil/compost, I usually wash off all soil from roots before re-planting.

Plants can then be left to dry out, or - if light is adequate - can be grown over winter. In this case, I would cut them back by about one third after roots have had a week or two to get established, then make cuttings . Roots can be trimmed, too.

WHAT ABOUT COMPOST?
Multi-purpose compost can be used (especially when perlite or sharp sand (or both) has/have been added). But I have found soil to be the best medium in which to place the roots of over-wintering plants.

Sterilizing Soil in a Microwave Oven

Due to cool spots, I find it best to spread very damp soil out evenly on a plate before heating in a microwave. About 8 to 10 minutes per litre should be sufficient to kill most creepy-crawlies and soil fungi.

Place kitchen towel over soil before starting, then heat until soil is just beginning to dry out amid much steam.

Leave it all to cool naturally, watching for any sign of life.

How About Hyacinths?

If you are looking for something to keep you occupied whilst filling up a spare window sill, how about pot hyacinths?

You can buy specially treated bulbs in garden centres at the moment.

If you fancy this, why not look up how to grow them online, then get the goods and have a go. You can let me know how you got on. They should flower in about 10 weeks from planting, so there is just time to have them ready for Christmas.

What do you think?

Simple Autumn Arrangement

Equipment

Large shallow pot (about 25 to 30 cm 10 to 12 inches)
Multi-purpose compost
12 Miniature daffodil bulbs
2 Cyclamen corms (outdoor)
6 pansies
teaspoonful bonemeal
Derris Dust
3 Match Sticks, or similar

I have utilised some old daffodil bulbs which are sprouting in last year's container. Just dug up a few, taking care not to damage the bulbs, especially at the necks. They might grow rather too tall, but it shouldn't matter.

• Placed some paper over hole in base of pot to prevent compost dropping through
• Made a tiny hole in paper next to edge of hole in pot
• Added about 2.5 cm (1 inch) compost
• Mixed in half of bonemeal, then spread rest over remaining compost
• Positioned daffodils at back
• Firmed soil around roots for support
• Added pansies
• Dusted with 'Derris'
• Filled in with remaining compost
• Pushed cyclamen corms into front of arrangement, till buried beneath compost for about half their depth
• Watered
• Placed in a light sheltered spot, supported on match sticks, at front of house. Match sticks enable water to get away whilst restricting access for some pests

That's all there was to it.

I have used a clay pot for the first time. Clay pots tend to dry out faster than plastic, so I shall have to watch the watering. Normally I do not water again until spring. It might be different this year.

Large Pots or Small? Problems With Over-Potting

As can be seen from the soggy compost in this six-pack half tray of pansies, planted out in July, too much compost at potting time (i.e. placing in too large a pot) can invite trouble, especially in a wet season where the roots are constantly waterlogged.

Removing from the trays and leaving in a dry place such as under this hedge (else put them on a kitchen towel indoors to blot up the excess water) will help revive the roots. But we need to be aware that the compost could be full of slug eggs, and probably small garden slugs (not the one seen here).


These plants in a twelve-pack half tray have healthier roots, though there is some rot showing at the bases. This can be removed before potting, though should not be necessary.


In a normal year, the six-pack pansies would be much larger and healthier plants, since the roots would have had more compost to feed on. But, as you can see, growing involves a consideration of several factors; things do not always go as planned.

Problems with Early Autumn Pots

Planting out pots in early autumn, when the weather is warmer, can give them a head start. However, all is not plain-sailing, as seen with this wireworm snuggled up among the struggling pansy roots. And the pansies will also provide food for slugs, as well (I did see a tiny garden slug, but it had disappeared when I returned with my camera). It seems we just cannot win.

Since most livestock becomes inactive as the weather gets colder, there is an argument for leaving it till later before creating our spring masterpieces. This way, we can remove anything we come across and it will be less likely to return.

Hence, although the roots will have less time to develop, there should be more of them. My best pansy arrangements have been done in February with plants obtained from a garden centre (although care must be taken to harden them off - keeping close to the house during a frost-free spell is ideal). They come into flower a bit later, but provide a very good show.

Hedges Wonderful for Drying and Storing

As you can see from these pansies (wet plants have been removed and placed on up-turned tray), the space beneath hedges can usually provide a sheltered airy place for drying out over-wet pots and small containers. I find mine particularly useful at this time of year, especially after a spell of very wet weather such as we have just had. Pots dry out much faster outdoors than indoors.

They don't just dry the pots out, they can provide some shelter against frosts, as well. This gives us chance to dry out our plants before putting them in store, thus helping avoid disease problems. I find it is always best to keep plants out of store as long as possible.

GREAT FOR BEGONIA AND DAHLIA TUBERS
P.S. Begonia and dahlia tubers also dry out well. If you are really short of storage room, I should imagine tubers can be left in a dry spot under a hedge all winter, provided they were wrapped up a bit (with newspaper or horticultural fleece) once dried. They should be able to survive most light frosts. However, for harder frosts, they can be put in a container of dry peat, which will help insulation.

I am always surprised just how hardy so-called tender plants actually are, probably because winters are now usually milder than they were. However, we need to take care from late December to early February, when night temperatures can easily fall below -5 deg C.

PLACING POTS NEXT TO HEDGE OFTEN HELPS THEM KEEP DRIER.

Semi-Ripe Fuchsia Cuttings Rooted in Perlite

After three weeks, this cutting is just starting to throw new roots and is ready for pricking out in compost before they get too long.


Mulit-purpose compost will do on its own. But I have thrown in some perlite (the white objects) to help aeration. This will allow me to compress it as necessary without restricting air passage. Perlite is really good for this. You can buy it in most garden centres.

After spraying lightly with water, the cuttings will develop if left in a light - but not sunny - place.

Preparing Geraniums for Winter

The geraniums (pelargoniums) in the house need preparing for winter. They have become lanky and ready for cutting back. We don't have to do this now; it is just to tidy up the plants. They should continue to flower throughout most of the winter (on a south-facing window sill), with perhaps a short break in December when the light is poor.


THE REAL PREPARATION - FEEDING AND WATERING
I stopped feeding them about a month ago to use up any spare feed in the compost. The paler leaves show this has now been achieved. A few dead or yellowing leaves are a good sign at this stage.

I always keep my plants much drier in winter, since growth will be slow. In fact, most plants enter a period of dormancy or semi-dormancy during this period and require neither feed nor water (giving this could prove fatal)

Whatever you do with geraniums in winter, do not let the stems remain wet for too long, or the surface of the compost become moist. Keep them in a dry atmosphere.

Fuchsia 2, Botrytis 1

You know, I am sure I can hear this fuchsia's roots quivering in their compost as I approach. To say it has suffered somewhat of an ordeal is an understatement - its treatment has been horrendous.

But isn't it amazing? After being written off as a hopeless case about two weeks ago, it seems to be surviving a Botrytis attack. Why?

The infected limb has been amputated and sprayed with kitchen bleach, along with any others which seemed suspect. The remainder of the plant has been dusted with yellow sulphur powder, a contact fungicide.

And I am really pleased to report that not only has the disease apparently been halted, the sulphur seems to have caused no damage to the new developing buds (I was afraid it might burn them). I don't know if you can see, but there are now some new buds coming up from deeper down in the compost. This should be good for next year - the original intention.

The only problem now is that the light is not strong enough to support the temperature. Consequently, the growth is rather thin. This plant would be best put outside where things are cooler. But there is rain about.

It will be interesting to see whether cuttings taken later from the plant will suffer with Botrytis. In other words, has it travelled within the vascular system?

Cyclamen First Watering

Seems ages since we planted the cyclamen. It is also incredible that, after fully wetting the compost by partial immersion in a sink of water, it is only now ready for it's first watering.

When I removed it from its pot to examine the roots 12 days ago, I was not impressed. Considering how dry the compost had become, they seemed rather sparse. So, because the plant was not wilting, I decided to leave things a while longer.

As you can see, things have not improved much, although there are a few more fine roots showing through. But the compost is so dry and devoid of roots that it will hardly hold together. Why?

Well, it could be because the compost (multi-purpose) contains too much food. If a plant can get all the food it needs, why bother to go looking for more? This seems the most likely.

However, cyclamens are a woodland-type plant, so thrive in an acid soil. It is possible that the compost is not acid enough (do I normally use ericaceous compost (compost without lime)? - can't remember). Though, as you can see, there is no sign of yellowing on the leaves. Strange.

Note the brown roots. This is a sign that the corm was given too much water at some stage (I left it in the sink by mistake; it was sodden when I removed it). So it might have spent much time recovering. This is what I mean when I say you should leave plants alone; they are capable of recovering all by themselves.

Cyclamens are good value for cool north-facing window sills, flowering until spring next year.

Attention Urban Gardeners

I'm sorry to have neglected you recently - things have been hectic outside at the end of the season (it's not finished yet), as I'm sure you realise. Anyway, I'm here now.

Although there is no Urban Gardening Section (or any gardening section) as such in the blog, there is much in the earlier archives which I feel would be of value. If you look at the March postings, you should find a section on 'Growing on a Window Sill'. The idea here was to show growers how a window sill can be utilised to grow herbs such as basil and coriander; I actually used clear plastic pots.

However, as is the case with live studies, things did not work out as planned. The basil - which I understood to be easy to grow - failed to germinate in the cold spring, whereas coriander (which I have grown several time before) did. I hope you will find this study both interesting and useful.

A SIMPLE BLOG
This is a simple blog, as stated time and again. The idea is to teach general one-size-fits-all techniques which will allow anyone to scythe through the hyperbole of growing. It is really very simple. Remember, 'You just put them in the soil and they grow'.

I am concerned only to offer advice which I know will work (mostly because I have tested it myself). However, when I first started gardening, I found Dr. D.G.Hessayon's 'Expert' range to be reliable, informative and good value. They are especially good for troubleshooting (until I started this blog, I had used nothing else), so you should find your problem outlined in them.

Although they are all good, two are relevant here:

'The House Plant Expert' (for INSIDE the house and window sill growing)

'The Container Expert' (for OUTSIDE the house)

You will find them in most garden centres and booksellers; they are also available in libraries. If you are serious about growing, they will be a really good investment.

P.S. I am very interested in the feedback. It is my intention to focus the blog around the growing of plants rather than on gardening (which is well-covered elsewhere). You might be interested to know that my most treasured plants are growing on my window sills. We shall be spending time with them over the coming months.

Also, whilst you can still grow on a window sill, it would be best to be south-facing, since the daylight is getting too weak. Things will pick up about mid-February. Please bear this in mind if you experiment.

Thanks again for the feedback, it's much appreciated.

Best wishes,

Jimini