Don't be afraid to see the top of the compost dry out between every watering (as already outlined, this will do the roots a world of good). If you remove the plant, or stick your finger into the compost, you'll see it is quite moist below, where the roots are. Remember that plants like DAMP, not WET, compost.
This dampness need only extend to the top of the roots. Keeping it moist above this serves no value.
As a rough guide, I usually let small pots dry out about half an inch down the compost (upto two inches for larger containers (see also 'Jimini Waters Plants -Part 1')). This also helps conserve water in hot dry weather. So it protects against both extremes of weather.
Even plants which require lots of water (such as tomatoes) can usually be left until the surface is just about to change colour (since tomatoes have roots very close to the surface, you should not let the surface become completely dry).
TEST FOR WETNESS
Remember, pinch the compost between fore-finger and thumb to test for moisture. If no free water comes out, it might be time to apply water, even if it hasn't yet changed colour. Ideally, you want to see a drop of water just appear when squeezed, but disappear back into the compost when released.
You need to experiment a bit, since all composts are different.
WEIGHT IS ALSO A GOOD TEST
I prefer to pick up the pot or container to test for water content. This, along with the dryness of the surface, provides a reliable watering guide.
REMEMBER TO ADD ENOUGH WATER TO REACH THROUGH ALL THE COMPOST (water until you see excess draining away from the bottom of the pot). Assess (by the weight of the pot) that the compost has been thoroughly wetted; if it has shrunk, beware of water escaping down the side of the pot.
WATER WHEN NECESSARY, NOT BY DATE. Weather conditions and stage of growth both greatly affect water uptake. Be aware of this.
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