The increasingly heavy overnight autumn dews in the UK create ideal conditions for moss establishment (or re-establishment!). Spores which have lain dormant during the summer months become active and can soon overpower even the healthiest of lawns. So we need to beware. Now is an ideal time to get down close to the turf and examine it carefully for strands of moss.
If moss has previously been a problem, I recommend an application of ferrous sulphate (19% soluble sulphate of iron) at 1 ounce per gallon of water per 10 square yards (35g per 4.5 litres water per 9 square metres). With the right rose, it doesn't take long to apply with a watering can (you might need to experiment with different ones to get the delivery rate right). I would give this treatment whether you can see any moss or not; any present will turn black almost instantly. You might be amazed at how much there is.
REPEAT TREATMENT IF NECESSARY
I dealt with moss treatment in great detail last year (see last autumn's lawn posts). But I didn't make it clear that we need to keep an eye out for moss re-establishing after a month or two. If it does, then repeat the treatment. You can do this as many times as necessary.
If you keep 'nipping it in the bud', you will keep it in check without disfiguring the lawn. i.e. the dead moss will quickly grow over, so there should be no need to rake.
RAKE OUT IF NECESSARY
If moss is really bad, then now is the time to kill it off and rake it out. There is still time for the turf to at least partly recover before winter. This way it will not look as unsightly as it would if left till later, or - even worse - next year.
My Broken Garden
Learning how to water plants to increase growth in pots, container or garden - especially how to water roots and tubers. Specialities: root growth or tuber growth of lawns, fuchsias, geraniums, dahlias and begonias.
19 August 2011
Cutting Back Hydrangeas
Cutting back the fallen hydrangeas last August seems to have worked. They have grown back and flowered well this year (see 'Pruning A Fallen Hydrangea').
Watering Technique To Control Botrytis In Fuchsias
I have had a real problem with botrytis on fuchsias this past year. Much has been learned. That's how it is with growing - trial and error - almost despair, at times. However, I noticed last winter that certain pots remained completely free of this disease. Why? Because I didn't need to water them. The compost surface dried out, leaving sufficient water down below to last a few months.
WETNESS OF COMPOST
The pots were given the maximum amount of water before October (when botrytis really became a problem due to colder temperatures), but the compost surface had enough time to dry out. The plant roots, as they grew, could then access water deeper in the compost. This way, these pots did not need to be watered again till growth recommenced the following year. And even if they did, they could be watered from the bottom by standing in a saucer of water for a few minutes.
This really worked last year. It was those pots that I didn't water in time - and so were left with a wet surface - which suffered.
COMPOST TURNS SOUR?
Many will tell you that wet compost turns sour. Yes it does. But, in my opinion, this only happens when it is too wet and consequently deprived of air. Adding some perlite and/or grit will help control this.
HOW MUCH WATER?
The limiting factor as to how much water can be given is the plant(s) itself. Fuchsia roots cannot tolerate over-wet conditions for long periods. So you need to give as much as you can without drowning the plant. Only experience can help here.
DON'T WATER TOO SOON
It is surprising how dry a compost can become before it affects fuchsias. In fact, they positively thrive on a drier one. But not TOO dry - otherwise the roots will shrink and cause permanent damage. It's a very narrow margin, but one that is worth discovering if you want to grow fuchsias well.
WETNESS OF COMPOST
The pots were given the maximum amount of water before October (when botrytis really became a problem due to colder temperatures), but the compost surface had enough time to dry out. The plant roots, as they grew, could then access water deeper in the compost. This way, these pots did not need to be watered again till growth recommenced the following year. And even if they did, they could be watered from the bottom by standing in a saucer of water for a few minutes.
This really worked last year. It was those pots that I didn't water in time - and so were left with a wet surface - which suffered.
COMPOST TURNS SOUR?
Many will tell you that wet compost turns sour. Yes it does. But, in my opinion, this only happens when it is too wet and consequently deprived of air. Adding some perlite and/or grit will help control this.
HOW MUCH WATER?
The limiting factor as to how much water can be given is the plant(s) itself. Fuchsia roots cannot tolerate over-wet conditions for long periods. So you need to give as much as you can without drowning the plant. Only experience can help here.
DON'T WATER TOO SOON
It is surprising how dry a compost can become before it affects fuchsias. In fact, they positively thrive on a drier one. But not TOO dry - otherwise the roots will shrink and cause permanent damage. It's a very narrow margin, but one that is worth discovering if you want to grow fuchsias well.
12 August 2011
Why Some Fuchsias Are Self-Branching
It's been bothering me. What I said last week about the multi-plant flowering unevenly (see 'Two's Company . . .'). It wasn't quite right. This multi-plant is not flowering unevenly because the cuttings have rooted at different times. It's because two of the plants contained flowering meristems, whereas the third one did not.
Once a plant stem 'decides' to flower, the apical meristem, contained within the terminal bud (growing tip), ceases laying down only dormant side shoots in new leaf axils and begins to produce flowers (or flowers and shoots). At this time, it ceases to be called an 'apical meristem' and becomes instead a 'floral meristem'. However, this change is not obvious; it only becomes apparent once flower buds can be seen. Until this time, it appears like a normal shoot tip, the young flower buds being there but too small to detect. So this is what has happened here. This change into flowering mode had occurred in two cuttings only. The third was a normal stem.
SELF-BRANCHING TYPES
![fuchsia 'genii' leaf axils](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKuDM86JN7aLlPlie7PSn30yChVZFj84e4oxRVco7VlUXKaFXWcKIBiputzEWBtfZeClZ_SzcJWAPoIROHW-pTkxwSDmts0oGD-QnT30NprWouhKnNfrxNFDewHkL_qBK5iqSkqe8k349M/s400/gb110810_genii_leaf_axils.jpg)
The situation is even more confusing in fuchsias because some continue to lay down both flowers and shoots in their leaf axils. 'Genii' (left) lays down flowers (pink) and shoots (lime) at DIFFERENT nodes, whereas 'Hawkshead' (right) lays down both flowers and shoots at the SAME (but not all) nodes. These young dormant axillary shoots, once activated, allow these fuchsia stems to become 'self-branching', thereby developing the shrub vegetatively as flowering continues throughout the summer.
NON-SELF-BRANCHING TYPES
Some fuchsias, however, once flowering has begun, cease laying down side shoots and lay down only flower buds (plus a pair of feeder leaves) in the axils of each consecutive new node. This continues for a few weeks until flowering has finished, at which time vegetative growth resumes, followed by another flush of flowers. Thus, the shrub stops developing during flowering, so must be built up previously. However, there is a plus in that the flowers are more visible (and therefore look more spectacular) because they are not covered by leaves, thereby making these plants more suitable for exhibition purposes. Note that 'Amazing Maisie' (left) produces two pairs of flowers at each node, along with two feeder leaves. This has the effect of making the plant appear more floriferous; it also makes it easier to shape for best effect.
Once a plant stem 'decides' to flower, the apical meristem, contained within the terminal bud (growing tip), ceases laying down only dormant side shoots in new leaf axils and begins to produce flowers (or flowers and shoots). At this time, it ceases to be called an 'apical meristem' and becomes instead a 'floral meristem'. However, this change is not obvious; it only becomes apparent once flower buds can be seen. Until this time, it appears like a normal shoot tip, the young flower buds being there but too small to detect. So this is what has happened here. This change into flowering mode had occurred in two cuttings only. The third was a normal stem.
FUCHSIAS LAY DOWN FLOWERS IN DIFFERENT WAYS
SELF-BRANCHING TYPES
![fuchsia 'genii' leaf axils](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKuDM86JN7aLlPlie7PSn30yChVZFj84e4oxRVco7VlUXKaFXWcKIBiputzEWBtfZeClZ_SzcJWAPoIROHW-pTkxwSDmts0oGD-QnT30NprWouhKnNfrxNFDewHkL_qBK5iqSkqe8k349M/s400/gb110810_genii_leaf_axils.jpg)
![fuchsia 'hawkshead' leaf axils](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjly4WaC4vfU7NLzUCqtCeS_NfapVihH8KrjhcQMBaR5lhtvQok-YXDvrHaLa5KqnJwICJm6EsKAywsNz5iG36md-G1eePD1CabkG9jzVJPocFCx-dPqB1TXnh6xjP2HTpR6bL-IlRYFrDc/s400/gb110810_hawkshead_leaf_axil.jpg)
NON-SELF-BRANCHING TYPES
![fuchsia 'amazing maisie'](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhb-6IKNvqLZlok9wuA-dFmZLZeU4blRriSBZ3pJ41oEvl-bdE8U3ClAtHcR6wVVzA6Lr2BMFpivoX-u7XLqoTZZJOF73F153qDKZ_MCwNGdnWJSsA-_XRaeMPbC-YaMYIpxYvlUOUtguy/s400/gb110810_maisie_leaf_axils.jpg)
Multi-Plants Look Good Right From The Off
![French lavender cuttings](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4LAuTe3osHnsJQyDPpbNMQa6YDtBqjmSKRjocT_LJksgnfLiZUsEBvOvwdVIYpIgIR2HxEP2Xe6l5HipJyd8-_ef_Txr9rjy-l-ARwovubpBFVsHHvwHTesbAECGcwWxD2WOxMPImwZkT/s400/gb110810_french_lavender_cutting.jpg)
![multi-plant of pinks cuttings](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqGJiwy6tvWGYldDqnYH7KwiT7SBecU0xbMNILJSZzmvmCXhK-FMI8JF00lYYT4Z7PT0Mbai0OizH-YTJ9gkSx33uaCNgxh_j2_KE2QP1X6TrSqvxtFfoJOfNk9Oe3ZaXHZefCE9Haf4kb/s400/gb110810_pink_multi-plant.jpg)
Multi-plants in small pots are easy to store over winter. And they look good right from the off because the plants don't need to build up a framework of stems before they can flower well. The structure is already there. Each stem will very quickly bear a flower. And, once mature, these plants can look fantastic!
Labels:
growing,
propagation,
storage
Bleach Seemed To Remove Botrytis From Fuchsia Stem
![botrytis on fuchsia stem](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuehnv_VQ-Lv7EacpmTv3bgeuk6ek5AuvX9iIQ6Ns-V9krRy_ATMB9TWvnZ8L5VvThF66CnYj66faX1Pv-Usioev6fQRbfYU-u53JdxcoN3FDOEmssz2IAtFunEjJ0hscEUfRGRnOlXhW7/s400/gb110712_botrytis_on_fuchsia_stem.jpg)
I can say that a drop of thick domestic bleach - the smallest drop that falls naturally out of the bottle - in a 500ml hand spray not only contained this disease, but actually seemed to remove it. I tried this on a couple of plants and the result was the same in both cases. You might also remember that I used kitchen cleaner with bleach, carefully applied, last year on the troubled triphylla. This also worked, and the plant survived without any obvious detriment.
Young fuchsia cuttings seem to take a bit of a pasting, though. And I'm sure it will damage the tender young root hairs. However, they are still living - just.
PREVENTION
Watering with one or two drops of bleach per gallon (4.5 litres) of water is said to give effective prevention against botrytis. But don't know if it will actually remove it.
BABY BOTTLE STERILANT
Chlorine has been used for years in the mushroom industry against bacterial blotch. Last year I tried baby bottle chlorine sterilant (supermarket own brand) at recommended strength. This seemed to work against the fungus, but caused some damage to the larger cuttings. Younger cuttings were damaged even more. However, these nearly all survived, of a fashion - without botrytis. I was going to do some tests with weaker concentrations, but haven't got around to it. Story of my life!
Remove Dead Leaves In Wet Weather
![dead geranium leaves should be removed](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDsS0s_Bqy2qTXOt6I45ZCr2WgSriuvEcfRllGofnRe-oB1SNdhh8wx-qxFzlTj5Q0efMi1Ucx0I6l65glz271PBwxDpMaAAEtt4G3pYea_b-6DSc1mUfvW3shMpDihb46JpMj66Tq_4uo/s400/gb110810_dead_geranium_leaf.jpg)
Plants do not need many leaves to flower well. In fact, as you have seen previously on the geraniums (pelargoniums), they seem to use just those surrounding the young flower stems. Perhaps the lower leaves have some value. But this is not significant. For the extra risk involved in keeping them on the plant, any potential reward is too small.
MAKE A BIT OF SPACE
You don't have to denude the plant. Just make a bit of space. This will also enable better access to the debris. A long pair of tweezers is also a good investment for reaching the awkward places.
Too Cold For Tomatoes?
![rolled tomato leaves](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcGKJgnsHD0q4PzoHfEi4NdSlhinONE-gL7wSs8dMyVjuGpGvy6JCa8JrJsQtcLrsKP2YeOypj69xX5dOmOMezU-4sIfVJ0rtuPw78tkJnDtG1Xg8wbo7ufVsgCrTlaxjkqQSHr44od9cj/s400/gb110809_rolled_tomato_plant_leaves.jpg)
SAME AS LAST YEAR
This is exactly what happened last year, the only difference being I have not detected any blight (last year's plants had to be destroyed).
![flat tomato leaves](https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2jIVEiii_RnywF0pUQ4UL95rA_auquLl2rkG4c5k19_YrkS0PPRz4qiMK0HWenQ9ZQJT2hGOulLeND4y9cQkM3T3D1jm9eJMTgJHYJ_p5bJ3ndkWgodlo1WfPtngVVS_4CODKnGpeM9vO/s400/gb110809_flat_tomato_leaves.jpg)
STILL NO WISER
The fact that 'Outdoor Girl' is a reliable outdoor variety indicates I have been 'flogging a dead horse'. 'Alicante' and 'Ailsa Craig' (last year's variety) just will not grow in my garden, probably because it is too cold and draughty. Although, of course, the greenfly could have brought a virus? I'm still no wiser.
Labels:
disease,
growing,
tomatoes,
troubleshooting
5 August 2011
Gibberellins Rampant Under August Skies
August in the UK is a difficult month for fuchsias. If the hot muggy weather doesn't allow botrytis to destroy plants, the sudden appearance of dark thundery skies followed by prolonged warm dull days produces long (leggy) growth through etiolation.
PROBLEMS INDOORS WITH CONTAINED AIR
Things are not so bad OUTDOORS where darkening skies (loss of sun) do lower temperatures more quickly. No. It's INDOORS where problems really occur. Contained air (either by walls or glass) does not cool down nearly quickly enough to accommodate reduced light; the plants 'assume' they have competition, so therefore need a sudden spurt of growth to outgrow this. Hence leggy plants.
Etiolation is caused by elongation of the stem's vertical cell walls, controlled by the growth hormones 'gibberellins'
PROBLEMS INDOORS WITH CONTAINED AIR
Things are not so bad OUTDOORS where darkening skies (loss of sun) do lower temperatures more quickly. No. It's INDOORS where problems really occur. Contained air (either by walls or glass) does not cool down nearly quickly enough to accommodate reduced light; the plants 'assume' they have competition, so therefore need a sudden spurt of growth to outgrow this. Hence leggy plants.
Etiolation is caused by elongation of the stem's vertical cell walls, controlled by the growth hormones 'gibberellins'
Labels:
botany,
fuchsias,
growing,
Light,
troubleshooting
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